Britpop was at the forefront of British culture, fashion and music in the 90’s. They challenged and said ‘No’ to the bands such as Nirvana and America's grunge takeover. Bands such as Oasis, Blur, Pulp, Supergrass, Sleeper and The Verve heavily influenced and dominated the fashion and opinions of young British people during the 90’s making the era being remembered as ‘COOL BRITANNIA’
Cool Britannia was a period in the 1990’s where artists such as The Stone Roses, Blur and Oasis were inspired by 1960s pop culture. The success of the movement gave Brits the hope and confidence going into the new decade which they hadn't had previously in the 70’s and 80’s. The name is a pun on the title of the British patriotic song "Rule, Britannia!". Britpop fanatic Chris Black described Oasis in this interview by saying ‘I think Oasis was kind of like mod-meets-hooligan, which is very cool and super-British’(Chirs Black, STONE ISLAND, KATE MOSS & BLUR: HOW BRITPOP BROUGHT CASUALS STYLE TO THE MASSES)
The culture of Britpop is now coming back to fashion under the new idea of being indie, the music is still relevant and has a wide audience across Britain and the world. Fashion of the 90’s is now being regarded as the new form of street wear as the youth are now coming to grips with brands such as Stone Island, Fred Perry, Harrington jackets, Burberry and many more.
Kevin Cummins was a photographer who photographed and documented key figures of the 1990’s. I plan on reading his book ‘While We Were Getting High: Britpop & the ‘90s in Photographs with Unseen Images’ (see figure 1) . I hope to get a stronger understanding and be influenced by his work. ‘Kevin Cummins is among the best in the world at capturing the music scene.’ Manchester Evening News
For my projects I will be highlighting the importance of this time period by creating a magazine in which I plan to show off the reinjection of 90’s Britpop into street fashion, culture and music of today.
Researching into magazines at the time the main three were Loaded, The Face and Rolling Stone.
Loaded was a men's lifestyle magazine. It launched as a mass-market print publication in 1994, which ceased being printed in March 2015 and now an online magazine.The Face is a British music, fashion and culture monthly magazine originally published from 1980 to 2004, and relaunched in 2019.Rolling Stone is an American monthly magazine that focuses on popular culture. All of these magazines jumped on the Britpop trend during the 1990’s and I have some original copies I plan on researching into them to understand layout, typeface and influences.
Also I will look at key designers and brands who helped to create the look and face of britpop, designers such as Massimo Osti and his brand Stone Island. Burberry’s tartan was the design of the moment, and brands such as 6876, Evisu, Atoo in Birmingham and Duffer of St George in London.
I wish to understand how the movement started and how The term "Britpop" arose and evolved .
Bibliography-
Brtipop (2021) Wikipedia. Available at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Britpop
Cummins, Kevin (2020),While We Were Getting High: Britpop and the ‘90s
Casely-Hayford, A.C. (2018) Alexa Chung's Latest Collection Just Landed & It's Aptly Named 'Fantastic'. Available at ‘https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/2018/01/187483/alexa-chung-third-collection-fantastic
Loaded magazine (January 1997)
when looking at my project i thought it would be a good starting point to try and create a shoot looking at all the images i collecet i then decided to look a what i had in my weardrob fir styling
When adding the coloured backdrop, my images become much stronger and coherent as the colour evaluated outcomes. I decided to keep the shadows within the photos as I felt it make them seem more believable and more accurate.
Target Market Research
Creating Target Market Research, I chose to use google forms to complete a questionnaire about Britpop. Asking questions like “Do you think Britpop is coming back into fashion?” or “Who is your favourite Britpop band?’ Asking these question gave a consensus of what people felt about Britpop and what is trendy within it. Using Instagram, I directly messaged people with my questionnaire; however, I didn't send this form to my friends and family. Finding the Instagram account ‘britpopglory’, which only posted images relating to Britpop, I directly messaged their followers. They would know more about Britpop then my friends and family as they follow an account about Britpop. Getting 40+ responses gave me a wide array of answers which will help me create an accurate customer profile.
Customer 1
Once I collated all my Target Market Research, I felt it was much easier to make my Customer Profile. Most of the research into the customer took place during Target Market Research. I chose to have my first customer as someone who is young and would want to learn about Britpop as they were not born in the era. The imagery used in my collage was all found in Loaded magazine and the ‘thisisneverthat’ SS21 collection. I tried to focus on imagery that the customer wants to see, e.g. oasis, blur and how Britpop is coming back into fashion.
Customer 2
For my second Customer Profile I looked at the older demographic interested in my project, aged 32-60. This customer would be someone who grew up in the 1990s and would wish to remember and reflect on their past. I used imagery that I hoped would bring back memories and emotions toward the older customer making them reflect and remember their past.
Feedback - During a one to one feedback session with my tutor I was told that maybe my customer profile was not enough, more would need to add more e.g salary, favourite film, dislikes and some more. It was vital that I did this improvement as I would understand and know more about the customer on who I am aiming my project on.
New Customers 1 and 2
What is my Unique Selling Point - I feel like my project is unique as no one has tried to show how Britpop fashion is once again becoming mainstream.
What is my emotional Selling Point - one of my ESP is that the older customer will connect to this project as they would want to relive their past and remember.
Wall/Inspiration
Creating a wallboard enabled me to layout all the image research I collated from both The Face and Loaded magazines. I tried to group the wallboard into sections to make it earlier for me to understand; on the left, the wall comprises all the relevant bands and artists of the period. The right is the fashion and adverts found in magazines. Creating this wallboard has given me the inspiration to create my project.
Competitor Research
When looking at competitor research I looked into the magazine “The Face” when looking throughout the magazines I found some strong resemblance between The Face and Loaded.
When looking at layouts of both there was a key similarity however loaded is less structured within their title pages. Both magazines caught onto the idea of Britpop both producing relative images even sometimes the same adverts would be in both. I am going to also use The Face magazine within my research this will help me collate images and make my overall project stronger.
Original Mood Board
Brainstorming my concept, I found that there are many different lanes to take my project. There is also a lot of material and research around Britpop. Having a brainstorm, I can always look at it for inspiration and ideas that I would want to respond to and research. I am also adding to my brainstorm as my project goes on, as I am constantly researching and finding new information as this project expands.
1990's Timeline of Events
To start my research, I look at the most significant news reports and events of the ’90s. This timeline will help add context to my research and give vital background information to help me plan my project.
Live forever the rise and fall of the brit-pop - Documentary
Watching the ‘Live forever the rise and fall of the brit-pop’ documentary by John Dower helped me understand the Britpop movement. The documentary interviewed band members such as Louise Wener, Damon Albarn and Noel Gallager, and influential people who gave the truth behind the myths and legends and helped tell and expose the Britpop movement. Overall this documentary was a very eyeopening and informative experience. It covered everything from the fashion of the time and the music and the demise and fall of Britpop.
Notes
While watching the ‘Live forever the rise and fall of the Britpop documentary, I took notes on what I found interesting and things I need to research and understand more. Printing out my notes, I then analysed them more. Watching this documentary at the beginning of the projects has given me a good base of knowledge on which I can expand on and devel deeper.
Fashion Inspiration
When looking at how the fashion was described during the 1990s’ alot of the brands and fashion houses are still successful today, this shows that fashion names hasn't really changed.
The Stone Roses - Research
The Stone Roses were the roots of the Britpop movement. After reading an article about the band in my book, ‘I Was Britpopped: The A-Z of Britpop’ by Jenny Natasha, Tom Boniface-Webb, this information was vital in understanding the band origins.
The Stone Roses - Inspiration
When looking at my research sources, I found images and references to help me understand who and how The Stone Roses look. I will also find reference imagery online and in my magazines and books.
The Stone Roses - Experiment 1
When reading ‘I Was Britpopped: The A-Z of Britpop’ and watching ‘Live forever the rise and fall of the Britpop’, The Stone Roses’ main contribution was the gig at Spike Island. Creating a collage on photoshop, I edited The Stone Roses’ image over the spike island crowd’s backdrop. As both the source images where in black and white, I added colour thought the bands’ logo of a lemon
Feedback - Getting feedback on my collage from my dad, he said he found it hard to tell what the backdrop was as there was not enough of it to tell what was happing. He suggested if I could make the band members smaller, making the background have more space; however, this can not be achieved as the original image is cropped down to a square shape. As I could edit the authentic photos, I decided to create and new outcome.
After finding more source images of both The Stone Roses and Spike Island, I created another collage. This time I tried to focus on the backdrop and making it more visible. Moving the band members to the bottom of the collage gave me more space for the background. Overall I feel that this outcome is more successful as the images are higher quilty, and the compassion is much stronger.
The Stone Roses - Styling
Planning for a photoshoot, I wanted to style my model and use The Stone Roses as inspiration. Searching online and also in a photo book I had called ‘While We Were Getting High: Britpop & the ‘90s’ by Kevin Cummings. Once I had all the material, I added it to my sketchbook and analysed there fits. The recurring theme of baggy oversized jackets and almost flared like jeans was apparent in most of the images I collected.
The Stone Roses - Call sheet
Making a Call Sheet allowed me to plan out my shoot and be ready to shoot on the day. By planning my location, model, outfit, and equipment, I can focus on the shoot day as I know what I want to achieve.
The Stone Roses - Film Shoot 1
When playing my shoot, I wanted to use my film camera. However, I forgot that I recently added a 30-year-old roll of film there, and I didn’t use it. Using expired film, you have no control over how the outcome will turn out as the film may be damaged and not be exposed. Although I didn’t want this effect, I had to use it as I didn’t want to waste it.
Shoot analysis - shooting outside for half of my film; I wanted to be urban and have vegetation and life. When walking around the university, I found this one place with leaves and chose to shoot there. I made my model stand in the middle of my fame and act natural and loose, as this is how The Stone Roses posed. When using the studio backdrop, I sat my model down and once again told him to relax and be loose. Overall I am happy with this roll of film and like how the image came out to be grainy. Most of my images in the roll of film are not useable as they don’t relate to my customer and are not strong images on their own. Having a second roll of 400 iso I hope to develop my pictures using another roll of film and shooting inside
The Stone Roses - Film Shoot 2
Taking a second roll of 400 iso film, I wanted to use this film in the studio as there would be flashes to sink to my camera. When looking at my speed rail attachment, it didn’t fit, so I could not use the external flashes with my camera, and I felt this reflected throughout my images.
Shoot analysis - When looking at my shoot, the white backdrop looks green. This is due to the camera trying to light up the set using its internal iso light reader. In doing this, I had to use the flash. Using the camera flash made my model have red eyes. The appearance of red eyes in photos occurs when the camera flash is reflected from the retina. This is not what I wanted, so most of the images are useless. Overall this shoot was unsuccessful due to the lighting. Suppose my camera was compatible with the external flash. When shooting, I booked out external flashes; however, the adaptor didn’t fit my camera, so I could not use it. My images were much more vital if I could use the flashes as the greenish backdrop would pure white. If so I feel that the shoot would have been a success as the
The Stone Roses - Digital Shoot 1
As a backup, I also used my DLSR camera; using a DLSR, I was able to view my images as soon as I have taken them. Using a fixed 25 mm lens, I could crop my model and focus on the clothing. Overall the pictures with the DLSR are must better, as I could use the external flash and control the lighting. An image is only as good as the lighting. When taking the photos, my shutter speed was too fast, making the lights react slowly. This is why there is a black kind of gradient across the images. I accidentally did this. However, I liked to affect it was giving off, so I decided to keep shooting like it.
Band Origins - Research
While reading ‘I was Britpop the a-z’, I came across this page, which I felt was interesting to see where all the Britpop brand originated. As you see, the bands come from everywhere across Britain; however, most bands come from London or Manchester. Maybe this split Britain in half?
Another page I found in ‘I was Britpop the a-z’ was a list of most bands during the Britpop movement. The BIG 5 bands are ones I wish to focus on as I feel they would have been the most influential regarding fashion, mentality and overall ethos of Britpop. The other bands’ highlighter is bands I knew of during my research.
Top of the Pops - Research
‘Top of the Pops is a British music chart television programme, made by the BBC and originally broadcast weekly between 1 January 1964 and 30 July 2006. Top of the Pops was the world's longest running weekly music show. For most of its history, it was broadcast on Thursday evenings on BBC One. Each weekly show consisted of performances from some of that week's best-selling popular music records, usually excluding any tracks moving down the chart, including a rundown of that week's singles chart.’ - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_of_the_Pops
Watching ‘Britpop at the BBC’ gave me a wind understanding of some of the most popular bands during Britpop. Small captions under the bands provided small facts about the brand to give context and meaning behind the bands. (all images are taken from ‘Britpop at the BBC’)
SUEDE - Research
Suede is conceited the band who started Britpop; their first single, ‘The Drowners’, got attention for its contrast for U.S. Grunge music of the time. The song heavily influenced by the anarchism of punk and the sexual androgyny of David Bowie. Lead singer Brett Anderson was in a relationship with fellow member Justine Frischmann who would later date Damon Albarn and leave Suede to create the band Elastica. The band would see their most success in ‘96-97’ with their third album, which peaked at number one. Suede contented to make music after the Britpop period. The band decided to broke up in 2003 - source ‘I was Britpop the A-Z’
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Research
Brett Anderson described as ‘Anrogynous’ and influenced by David Bowie. After looking at images and interviews, I agree that Anderson was androgynous due to the pose and choice of clothing that Brett wore - source ‘I was Britpop the A-Z.’
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Inspiration
I found most of the images on Suede in Kevin Cummings photography book. Reading an interview with Cumming, he explains how he and Brett Anderson were very close mates. Many of the images are just of Brett; however, he was seen as the figurer man for Suede.
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Interview
When reading an interview looking back on Britpop Brett, say, “I think it has aged terribly”, this is due to the “The men behaving badly and the loaded culture”.Looking at my research i agree with what Brett says as there was a Fuck it mentally because people felt free. This was the ugly side of Britpop, there is a lot of good and positives which came out of the movement, and this is what I plan to focus on as I feel the positives are coming back into fashion 30 years later. - source ‘While We Were Getting High: Britpop & the ‘90s in Photographs with Unseen Images’
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Concept Board
Creating a concept board to capture the overall look and aesthetic of Brett Anderson, I started to collate images from books/online materials. I also found imagery that related to Anderson due to posses and outfits.
I wanted to create a quick test using low essential for my shoot plan lighting. Low key lighting is a lighting technique that focuses on accentuating shadows by using hard source lighting is a technique I wasn’t too comfortable with as I have never tried to use it. Watching YouTube videos on creating this effect, I found it relatively easy to set up, even though my outcome is not what I envisioned.
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Shoot 1 - FAIL
1. Having to self-shoot was much more struggle than I first thought; having to set a timer on my camera, I could not use the autofocus. Now the image is blown up bigger, I can see it out of focus, and it is not an artistic choice to be either.
2. Creating this experiment, I didn’t have any access to models, so I had to shoot myself, and I feel I make this shoot worse as we can see, I’m not a model.
3. Looking at what I have created, I feel there is no personal expression as there is no imagination and little thinking, making my images a carbon copy.
4. My styling is also boring as there is minimal effort and once again looks like I’m trying to be a Brett Anderson want to be. I need to experiment and find some references to get inspired by
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Reworked Inspiration
Looking for imagery to help me get inspiration for my shoot, I looked at the previous images of Brett Anderson. I also look at fashion brands now and their latest collection. Although their imagery is not the same as Bretts, the clothing I feel relates to how Brett would dress now. Looking into my fashion magazines helps me collect more images of how to model myself.
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Styling
Starting again, I collated more imagery of Brett Anderson., I also looked at contemporary designers that captured the same style as Anderson. Designer such as Raf Simons and Yohji Yamamoto I felt designed clothing which Anderson would wear.
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Reworked Concept Board
I decided to edit my concept board as I felt I didn’t relate to what I wanted to achieve. Keeping some images, I also added some more recent photos. This will help me understand what I wish to achieve in my shoot.
Inspiration while Re - shooting
While shooting, I had booked as a reference of what I wanted to create, this helped immensely as I wasn’t just replying on my memory for the images I wanted to achieve
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Own styling
Styling myself, I knew I wanted need to wear something formal but also slick and gender-neutral. When looking at my inspiration, there was little use of colours. Only black and white. In my previous shoot, I wore a black suit; however, I felt I need it to more abstract as this would make the outcome stronger. Using ties and a scarf, I added them to my waist, tying my suit together. The trench coat allowed me to have a print pattern; I wasn’t sure how it would look. Overall I like the coat. Using photoshop to make the images black and white will help to lose the colour within the coat.
SUEDE - Brett Anderson - Re-Shoot Plan
I was not having access to a studio; I had to compromise and shoot within my room. As I wanted to do a full-body shoot, I had problems trying to fit everything. Eventually settling on this location, I added a white cloth backdrop to my scene. I am not paling on using this backdrop as my location. I just need a strong contrast. This would make it easier for me to photoshop myself out. Using an external flash, I was able to add a harder light on my subject. Looking back, I wish I turned the power of the flash up as then the shadow would be harsh and more defined. If the shadow were more potent, it would be easy to keep.
Re-Shoot Contact sheets
When looking at my contact sheets, there were many images there. My hand is holding a remote; I was had to use a remote to set the camera to shoot. Using photoshop, I will remove the little button. This second shoot was much better than the first due to the styling and confidence I had. Overall I feel I was more prepared excited for this shoot as I was able to change my outfit and have more control overall.
First Edit
First Edit Spread
Creating two tests, I was able to see how my images would look. In the first test, I tried to keep my shadow. However, it was hard to do as the shadow was faded. I will need to look into how to make the shadow more visible. For my second test, I didn’t use shadow. However, I keep the images all in black and white. These tests are much stronger than my original Brett Anderson shoot. I will next need to create a layout for my pictures as these are just experiments.
Number 1 Singles - Research
Looking at number 1 singles between 93-99, there was not much variation between the bands. Oasis and Blur were always going to show up. They seem to rule the time between 93 - to early 98; this time was the peek of Bitpop,
Battle of Britpop - Oasis vs Blur
Battle of Britpop - In 1995 the two biggest bands in Britpop went head to head to reach number one. Blur and Oasis captivated both the UK public and the press; this made Britpop more mainstream and less of an underground movement. Britpop was transformed into an essential idea in British music history. Both these bands became the most influential bands in Britain.
Blur formed at Goldsmiths university in London signed to Food Records. They were not too worried about making money; it was more about the music. This all changed in 1993 when blur saw that they could make British music stand out again like bands such as the who, the Beatles, the specials and the smiths. At the 1995 brit awards, blur won 4 awards.
Image - Cummins, Kevin (2020),While We Were Getting High: Britpop and the ‘90s
In 1995, both bands had their new albums set for an autumn release, blurs in September and oasis in October, making no clash; however, there was a problem with their singles. Oasis had 'roll with it’ releasing on the 14th August, one week before blurs “country house” this meant that oasis would be number one when blur’s “country house” would come out.
To fix this blur decided to change their release to be the same day as Oasis. Whichever band had the more significant song would appear on Top of the pops that week. The war was on. This became more than just about the music; it was a war over north vs south. Blur being the winners, they played on top of the Pops being introduced by pulp lead singer Jarvis Cocker. Although blur won the battle, people still believe the oasis won the war.
GIF Plan/Brain Storm
I decided to create a GIF to show and visualise the Battle of Britpop. I want to develop a kind of boxing match; however, as it is only a gif, it will need to be simple and to the point. I want to have the faces of Liam Gallagher and Damon Albarn boxing.
Outcome 1
In Photoshop, I used the magic wand tool to remove the background of images that I wanted to use, e.g. heads. When making the GIF, I found it fiddly to create this as there were many layers to order and play around with it. Once I had them in order, I could export the final GIF.
Feedback - Getting peer feedback, they recommended that I was to edit the backdrop and place a boxing ring in the background. Looking online, I found a stock image that I can use; overall, this slight adjustment makes the outcome more professional and a lot more cohesive.
Oasis
Getting a better understanding of who oasis is, I learnt that there come from a very working-class family, and this was one of their crucial motivations to become successful. The Gallagher brother went to see the stone roses at spike island, which they later said in an interview that they were heavily influenced by.
Oasis - Song Lyrics
The single Cigarettes and Alcohol reflect what was going on during the Britpop time; drugs mates drink, and not carrying ruled the mentality of young adults; this trend was created due to the Conservative party’s fall.
Some might say it was related and performed at the perfect time. It was performed on Top of the Pops by Oasia just days after labour won the general election. The lyrics captured the feeling of young adults during this time.
Oasis - Inspiration
Oasis - Noel Gallagher - Interview
After reading the interview with Noel Gallagher, he believes that he is part of the world’s best band. This cockiness is one thing that goes hand in hand with Oasis at they will never say they are or wrong. His rude mentally is shown throughout the interview even now.Source While We Were Getting High: Britpop & the ‘90s
Working Class
Manchester aka Madchester was the place to be during the early years of Britpop. The city was booming with young working-class teenagers wanting to become famous and do what they want. Being working class was a boom and everyone who wasn’t in the working-class bracket wanted to be. Everyone wanted to be the young Liam Gallagher stealing lawnmowers from gardens and selling them for drugs.
Working Class Mood Board
Creating a mind map around the working-class, I wanted to understand why it was seen as a trend to come from this specific background. One key reason was the lack of empathy and general care for anything. This mentality was shown through how the Gallaher brothers misbehaved with little remorse. As they were the newest kids on the block, everyone wanted to be like them and have their mindset. However, those who came from a different background/class also wanted to join this laddish behaviour.
Working Class Fashion
Reading an article on how fashion and the working class “Rudeboy” go hand in hand, help me see how some brands got a lot of street credit and or almost changed and ruin a brand image.
STOMPER Collection Film
“STOMPER.” Spring 2017 collection film “STOMPER” brings the focus back to Represent roots featuring skinny and biker stretch denim that draw their cues from the British working-class subcultures of the ’80s and ’90s. With distressing as the emphasis, the denim moves from modest bleaches https://hypebeast.com/2017/1/represent-2017-spring-summer-stomper-collection
Blur - Country house
Blur's single country house was a counter opposite to work-class songs. Blur was said to have a "mockney, down-the-dogs blokey charm" as they were not quintessentially from working-class backgrounds. The song is about a man who retires to an expensive country house to escape the city’s pressures. The music video for "Country House" was directed by artist Damien Hirst, who had attended Goldsmiths, University of London, with Blur’s members. It features the band and a businessman in a flat with the band playing a board game called "Escape from the Rat Race" before they become trapped in the game where they are with farm animals and other people before appearing in the flat again.
LIFT - Short Film
When filmmaker, Marc Isaacs, decided to make a documentary about a lift in a London tower block he had no idea how the residents would react and what they would reveal of their lives. He simply set himself up in the lift with his camera and waited for the right moment to ask questions. The result is both humorous and moving. The whole of British society is captured in this microcosm and the simplest of approaches becomes a parable of multiculturalism. http://www.andanafilms.com/catalogueFiche.php?idFiche=186#:~:text=2001,right%20moment%20to%20ask%20questions.
Watching Marc Isaacs short film, I wasn’t that engaged with the opening first minutes as the residents in the lift seemed to be shy and don't want to talk to Isaacs. As the film developed, the people started to talk and engage with the camera, even to the point where they began to open up with some of their deepest emotions. The film is very overwhelming and powerful as you can see how people can develop and change time. Being shot in a council estate block of flats, people open you talking about how hard life is, especially when they have no ambitions.
Pulp - Common People
“working-class culture was often sneered at as being crude and then suddenly people maybe cottoned on the fact that maybe it was a bit more alive than the supposedly high brow culture. And so was desperate to say that they had been hanging around and say “I went to a great cafe it was really authentic the cutlery was so dirty”
Skepta - Shutdown
Even today, artists are still trying to show where they come from, whether it’s the lyrics or the location of where they shoot their music videos. Shutdown by Skepta is one of the best examples of this. You can see people walking around a council estate wearing an expensive stone island jacket with a full Nike tracksuit in the music video.
Working Class Inspiration/Concept board
Creating a concept/inspiration board, I wanted to find photographers who documented the working class during the 1990s. The imagery I found I felt captured the mood and the look for the time. Having clear images of what the 1990s was like, I hope to see places that resemble the look and feel.
I didn’t create a recce of where I wanted to go as I had no idea where I would go on locations to visit for this shoot—having no real plan on where and how I would capture my images gave me free rein to explore my surroundings and find these locations.
Working class shoot
Spending two days cycling around where I live, I found locations that resemble working-class areas. When shooting, I just walked around trying to document locations to shoot later. I also wanted to document people around; however, few people were to shoot. Deciding to go to a park to photograph people, I found it hard to photograph as there wants the type of people there I tried to shoot. Overall this shoot helps me find the locations I plan to shoot later.
Blur
Researching into Blur I found out that most of the credit of Britpop goes down to lead singer Damon Albarn and how he hated the tour to the USA. he hated how countries were just following in the footstep of American and he wanted to create a complete new ENGISH scene for music and culture.
Blur - Damon Albarn
After Blur spits up in 2002, Albarn went on to create some more bands, most noticeably The Gorillaz, years ideally of most the band members were kept secret; however, it would soon be found out, Albarn was the lead singer. To this day, The Gorillaz are still making music.
Blur - Inspirational Images
Collecting Blur’s images and Damon Albarn, I was able to understand how the band dressed during the 1990s. This research will help guide me in my styling
Blur - Styling
Looking at images, I was able to find out what exactly the brands the band was wearing, e.g. Harrington jackets, Gola trainers, and casual sports jackets.
Blur - My Styling
When creating my styling, I looked around my house a collect as many sports jackets as possible. I chose to use the Casual look as I feel my styling before this was becoming repetitive, and I, many needed to mix it up and capture all of Britpop
Blur - Concept board
Creating my concept board, I focused on the main singer of Blur Damon Albarn; using the recce shoot gave me a plan of where I wanted to shoot. I plan only to make a shoot list from the recce to be better prepared for my shoot.
Blur - Shoot Plan
Creating a shoot plan in photoshop, I know exactly what I want from my plan. Photoshopping images and poses of Damon, I was able to create a more cohesive picture of how I want my shoot to go.
When doing this shoot, I had some problems; one problem was that when I was reviewing my images on location, the screen had a lot of glare due to it being so sunny. When trying to look at my pictures, I thought they came out perfect, However, once oping the files on Adobe Light night room, I was able to see that some of my best images were out of focus. I will need to try a fix this using post-production; otherwise, the photos are useless.
Looking through the 90s THE FACE magazines, I found this short article which explained what the next big trend d be during the 1990’s “Polo Geezer” the report explained how the lad culture had adopted brands such as Ralph Laurea, Emporio Armani and CP Company. These brands were quintessential to becoming a ‘Geezer’ although not everyone could be a ‘Geezer’ people who wanted to be but just couldn’t are called faux-cockney
Loaded Magazines
After reading that article, I thought it would be a good time to look at Loaded Magazines. Loaded captured the Lad culture, and having its own page 3 images helped to sell it to young teens. I plan on looking at how Loaded contributed to the fashion at the time, influencing the youth.
I decided to scan some of the Loaded magazines. These front cover are very inspirational in the fount covers and strong due to how the text is laid out on the page. I will use this as inspiration when creating mine
Football - 96
The Lightning Seeds
During the euros, the Lighting seeds teamed up with comedians David Baddiel and Frank Skinner to crate the official English football team song “Three Lions”. However, England didn’t win the championship the song is still very popular with the football community.
Football - Inspirational Images
When looking through loaded and also the face magazine, I found many images where they would get birds-eye views of the shoes. Doing research, I found they used a piece of glass where there would rest the shoe. Nothing having this I plan on trying to scan in images of my shoes; however, I am not sure if this would work as it my been out focus.
When looking through loaded and also the face magazine, I found many images where they would get birds-eye views of the shoes. Doing research, I found they used a piece of glass where there would rest the shoe. Nothing having this I plan on trying to scan in images of my shoes; however, I am not sure if this would work as it my been out focus.
Football - Massimo Osti
Massimo Osti (1944–2005) was an Italian garment engineer and fashion designer, most famous as the founder of the apparel brands Stone Island and C.P. Company. Osti's products were a mix of his own innovations and design ideas he got from studying military clothing, work-wear, and sportswear.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Massimo_Osti
The Stone Island brand is known for its innovative fabrics. This concept has been a cornerstone of the brand right from the very start. The brand is now heavily associated with streetwear and the grime music scene but it was previously a favoured brand in football culture as part of the “terrace casuals” fashion that became popular with image-conscious football fans in the ‘80s and ‘90s, who chose designer garments over their team colours, partly to show off rare European labels discovered while attending away matches, and partly to avoid attention of the police and rival team fans.
Stone Island
Another recurring brand within the magazines was Stone Island adverts. Being simple and to the point, the adverts show that they are trying to show off and promote. Moving forward, I hope to keep this simplicity with my photography as it isolates the bland, and this is what I want to achieve
Stone Island - Experiment
Trying to keep it simple, I scan some Stone Island badges and create a collage. I felt the best way to achieve what I wanted was to keep on scanning until I felt I had a nice composition. I only used the badge as I thought that everyone knew what it was and would know what it was.
Trying to keep it simple, I scan some Stone Island badges and create a collage. I felt the best way to achieve what I wanted was to keep on scanning until I thought I had an excellent composition. I only used the badge as I felt that everyone knew what it was and would know what it was.
Stone Island - Experiment 2
The following experiment I tried was to gather all the items of clothing which I had and scan them in. Doing this enabled me to focus more on the brand than if I was to do a photoshoot, creating a photoshoot, you would not see what clothing the model was wearing. Isolating, the clothes allowed of you are to see and engage with just the materials and construction of the clothing which Massimo Osti was very well known for. Some of the scans are not the best, and I cannot use some of them; they can fit within my magazine.
When looking through magazines, I came across a section dedicated to the fashion of the 90s. This research helped me understand what was relevant during the time. Big puffer jackets, oversized shirts and straight-leg trousers were the most reoccurring things. Today some brands are still relevant, and everyone is still wearing the same certain brands. Brands like iceberg have lost relevancy or been lost; however, most brands are still at the top of their game. One thing that drew me to this article was the photography. The layering of images and cutting and placing the models around a white backdrop inspired me, and I thought they were a very clean and effective way to showcase what's the models had on. I plan on trying to recreate something similar, however, having restricted models, I will need to use myself, so this could negatively work as my models will not be diverse, and we'll just have to be me instead.
Design Board
Responding to my research, I started to look into How the 90s average person would dress. Finding images from bands such as blur and Clothing adverts, I gathered and created a small ‘fit look’ when shooting; I found it hard to shoot myself as I was not able to move the camera and had to use a tripod. If someone else were modelling for me, I would have been able to move the camera and have different height images, making which may have made my outcome stronger. Even though I had to self shoot, I feel that this is a good representation of what I would achieve by myself. or my styling; I decided to gather all the clothing I owned and layer myself for my styling, creating different combinations and outcomes. I wanted the shoot to be quite energetic and play complete, so when creating my images, I decided to move around and create different looking poses that would look better once compiled into one spread. in Photoshop, I plan on removing the white background; however, keep the shadow as this will help sell the idea that it was shot all at one take.
Feedback After getting feedback on my outcome, my customer’s age range felt very appropriate. My customer recommended that I add small text boxes describing what I was wearing. So they could understand and find new brands in which they would like to wear.
Creating my first spread, I am happy with how the images are layered and combined to create this visually appealing spread using InDesign. I will add text around the photos and give brief descriptions of what clothing I was wearing so the customer could understand what it was I was wearing.
Another critical section within the magazines I found was shoes. Both Loaded Magazine and The Face magazine show brief timelines of how shoes have changed and become less formal. Swapping your traditional loafers for a pair of Air Max was the trend. Today brands such as Nike and Adidas have only gained more reputation throughout the years and have become a staple for any Young person.
Adidas Superstars and Gazelles were the choices of many young people during the 1990s both shoes are still produced today in different colourways and even have collaborated with certain artists to create unique and one-off trainers.
One of the most influential trainers during the 1990s was the release of Air Max. Air Max shoe had bubbles in the bottom of the sole which were filled with air allowing the person to feel like they were walking with nothing in between the foot. The Air Max gained popularity throughout the 90s and every year, a new shoe was released. Today’s shoes are still released and retouched creating exciting new colourways, and different design builds. during the 1990s, everyone had a pair, and even now, people still own the Air Max trainer
Trying to create 3D scans of my shoes was very difficult. Apps on my phone allowed me to scan in the trainers. Being a free app, the app was unsuccessful in creating a good render of what I wish to achieve. I will need to ask around and find a solution to start a new 3D scan.
After talking and reading reviews online, I downloaded a free app that allowed me to create 3D scans much better and more coherent. Although the scans and not the best, I will still need to find a new solution as I wish to create a small 3D structure that I can 3D print and have alongside my magazine.
After talking and reading reviews online, I downloaded a free app that allowed me, the imagery I found, feel it is my favourite imagery within all the research I have collected. I plan n trying to create a high-end shoot for my magazine. brands such as Ozwald Boateng Comme Des garcons and Helmut Lang ruled the 90s high-end fashion.
Ozwald Boateng, OBE (born 28 February 1967) is an English fashion designer, best known for his trademark twist on classic tailoring and bespoke styles. - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ozwald_Boateng
Finding old archival images of Comme Des Garcons designs shows how baggy and unfitted tailoring became trendy and shows was becoming trendy, and shows inspirational today. Both Ozwald Boateng and Comme-Des-Garcons were at the forefront of designing bespoke suits and high-end fashionable clothing. Looking at at-st Oracle contexts, I feel an unmistakable resemblance two Dandyism.
Harry styles I feel is the new idea of dandyism, he had changed and made it trendy to wear feminine outfits such as dresses and female suits. Collecting images on harry styles help me understand how he dresses and what significance he has with high-end brand such as GUCCI
Finding this old Comme Des Garcons Warehouse image, I found it very inspirational. This. The simplicity of the job is shown; however, the camera picks up the speed at which the person moves and creates movements within the image. I plan to use this image as referencing when I go to make my shoot.
By combining both new and vintage imagery, I wish to style; my model in baggy and generous gives the Model A more feminine side towards their clothing
Creating my styling I used an old tie to create a frock neck garment paired with a female white see-through sleeve top.
I wanted images that for my concept board would help reflect movement as this is what I wanted to portray within my high-end shoot. To create this effect, I would need to open up the shutter speed allowing my model to move and create a warped and blurred effect.
drawing out a small all shoot list I wanted my model to be cropped in and have the space to move and be free within the image. When shooting I played around with the settings trying to get the best outcome. noting down the different settings I used allowed me to remember which of the settings were the best to fit my image. It also allowed me to keep track of keep of how I was to create the best outcome
Using a black backdrop allows the white of my model shirt to stand out from the backdrop when playing around with the settings. I didn't want to lose my models hair are within the backdrop, so I will use Lightroom to try and open up the exposure making the hair more visible. the motion blur on the images creates a more excitingmodels’ hair and refined image rather than a standard portrait
The use of formaldehyde as an art medium was new to me. I wish to try and emulate something similar, creating a small time capsule art piece that would be shown off alongside my magazine
After consulting with the technicians at the prototyping lab, they advised me not to create a resin mould that would encompass my whole shoe as it would be unrealistic and a lot of money. We decided on settling on a small 3D printed shoe cast, In a small resin box.
The technicians recommended that I used water as a see-through material and if it is a small box where I would be able to put a trainer. When doing this, I had problems with the shoe being able to float above the water as the souls of the shoes are full of air. To fix this, I cut up small pieces of lead and added them to the inside of the shoe, creating a kind of Anchor on which the shoe would pivot around. Using a lightbox, I was able to photograph my shoe and then Photoshop out the background. Overall I am pleased very happy with my outcome as it is legible and also no reflection of, The art during the 1990s.
Asking the technicians to create a small prototype made of resin cause a lot of problems that I didn't think would happen. Initially, my idea was to cast my shoe in a resin block; however, it would be far too expensive and unrealistic if it was to be cast in resin. We decided to create a small ten by 10 cm box inside that had a small 3D printed shoe. However, once picking it up, I knew I had to do some sanding to make sure it was Crystal Clear.
Using wet and dry sandpaper and very fine grits, I slowly started to stand down the resin block each time getting clearer and more transparent. one problem I found was once I breached the smallest grit, it was still tough to see the shoe within the Block. after consulting with the technicians we weren’t quite sure on how this happened however once the block was shut up to light it was an easily seen.
My Expectations for the resin was for it to be crystal Clear however it is slightly cloudy, and this is due to the way the print is printed out the resin. Although it is not what I envisioned, I still think this is a very nice prototype and plan on using it as a touchpoint to connect to my customer.
Throughout my research, there was a strong advertising campaign towards cigarettes. Now in 2021, advertise no packaging on there are cigarettes. This significant change has inspired me to show how cigarettes have changed throughout the years and have now shunned upon by the public and government.
Creating a shoot plan, I wanted something simple that would be easily read and understood. I planned the composition to be easily readable and to have a more serious and controlled image on smoking.
In this shoot, there was a mix of scanning images and items alongside photography. Overall I feel my images will look strong once I have compiled them into small colleges. Using Lightroom, I will brighten up some of the imagery as it is hard to see, and the backgrounds are not pure white.
Trainspotting by Danny Boyle Was a BAFTA award-winning Oscar-nominated film by Danny Boyle. a young Ewan McGregor is going through a drug Fuelled addiction during the mid-90s in Edinburgh. Trainspotting reflected the views and ideas of the working class and showed The rest of the world how working-class Britain suffered under the rule of Thatcher. the Britpop soundtrack included artists such as Pulp Sleeper Elastica and Primal Scream
Collecting relevant imagery for my mood board I looked at artists such as Wolfgang Tillmans and his work with middle-class Russia.Both imageries from Tillmans and Trainspotting reflect a poor Working-class power struggle.
Creating a concept board, I wanted to show how the working class lived and behaved. Finding imagery from sources such as Loaded Magazine allowed me To make a direct and cohesive idea of what I wish to create.
For my Recce I went to Ladbroke Grove to use a student accommodation flat for my shoot. choosing student accommodation I was able to Take photos and record places and compositions in which I would come back and shoot my model in.
After my Reece, I planned in creating a shoot list. This shoot list would help me remember and Stage what I wish to Photograph during my shoot. I aimed Looking back at my shoot plan, I was able to capture every location I planned on shooting at.
Printing out my contact sheets, I was able to see which images I would be able to edit and create an outcome with. I plan on using Photoshop to create a polarisation effect. By inverting the colour levels, I will of change the colour of my imagery to become more exciting and vibrant.
Using Photoshop, I created both colour and a black and white inverted solarisation. Getting feedback from my peers they decided that the colour one is much stronger than that created. Printing both images out, I could see in detail what area I would need to remove to make my image even stronger
Margaret Thatcher, also known as The Iron Lady, was the ConservativeParty leader from 1975 to 1990. Thatcher leads using Photoshop leadership Style that became known as Thatcherism. Margaret Thatcher was known for the rise of power dressing to make London more substantial and more money Focus spawned designer labels to come and drop their shops within London. Many working-class people despised Margaret Thatcher as she was known for destroying the British manufacturing industry, which leads to mass unemployment and letting working-class people become more destitute. then they already were. Thatcher also employed the new poll tax this created uproar and made the working class once again despise her
To show hatred for Margaret Thatcher, I decided to illustrate her. I intentionally tried to make it as bad as I could to show that she didn't deserve a drawing of her, let alone a nice one. Overall I feel that the outcome is horrific to look at as it was drawn within 3 minutes. I also added a Stone Island badge on her left shoulder for a bit of fun and playfulness to help the viewer understand that it is a joke drawing
Succeeding Margaret Thatcher labour's, Tony Blair really encompassed and embraced the idea of Britpop. Many believe he did this to become prime minister and win everyone over. Play invited many sports and music stars to create an impression on a young Britain trying to win their votes. space even used the song by the Lightning Seeds three lions to help win his election by stating ‘ labour is coming home.
Creating too quick experiments, I foundThese I was able to find old stock images of Tony Blair and editing brand such a Stone Island and Evisu. these brands were high in popularity during the 90s and are still today. Simply adding a small logo or brand to an image can quickly make the viewer fun and playful.
Getting feedback from peers found these enjoyable and also quite funny to look at as they are play fool and laddish.
Looking through loaded magazines, I came across a section where they have Photoshopped both John Major and Tony Blair's wife's on to launch the images. I found these funny, and I wish to create something like this in my magazine as I hope it can be playful and fun for the customer.
I decided that I should make Tony Blair wear a massive suit that would drown him and make him look small. I did this as I didn't want anything too aggressive or rude to be in my magazine. looking at old zoot suits and vintage Giorgio Armani suits from the 1990s, I was able to create a styling outcome in which I wanted to create
I made my model wear Vivienne Westwood pirate boots as once again I felt it would be funny to see Tony Blair wear something as trendy. overall I'm very happy with these outcomes and I feel this is my best shoot so far. this is because I was able to use a studio and not self shoes for once having full control of the lighting allowed me to create this nice white backdrop but keep the shadows and make it look like a raw image.
One key and influential thing to happen during the 1990s was the death of Princess Diana. Princess Diana was sadly killed in a car crash. However, many conspiracy theories are stating that the Queen had something to do with her death due to her divorce from Prince Charles. after her death, the country found itself in a state of mourning this led to the downfall of Britpop and finally alongside the poor performance of Oasis new album Britpop faded away and became no more.
When thinking about the conspiracy theories I thought I could create a small outcome using all the theories and compile them into a prison photograph. taking inspiration from the film Usual Suspects, I wish to have all the subject standing in a room where their mugshots will be accepted. creating small placards, I Got 5 people to hold them up, and I Photoshopped the face of people who allegedly killed Princess Diana. Overall I feel this experiment is very playful and not too serious as I thought possibly being too serious would make my customer upset and emotional.
Creating my first mockup was a failure; I had no idea how I would make a magazine and didn't plan. I was stuck looking at the same screen and nothing was changing. looking at the loaded magazines for inspiration I still was not sure how to even lay the text out. looking back on this I'm happy I had this problem early on as I would be rushing towards the end trying to finish my layouts.
Taking some time out of my layout I sat and created a Creative Direction for my magazine. I sat and planned out what font so I was going to use how to use them the size of the fonts how the fonts would look on an image and also all of the inspirational imagery I could find. creating this helps tremendously as I had a clear plan of what I wanted rather than sitting there and throwing stuff on a page. using this plan be.my magazine will become more cohesive and a lot stronger than it already is.
Getting feedback from my final mock layout I was told that I needed to finish my magazine as it is still not complete. this is because I like to spend a lot of time on the layout and have a precise idea of what I want. if I do not achieve this I will sit there till I am happy this makes my work slow but also a lot more cohesive and and polished.
looking back on what I had created, I felt that it would be nice to develop small touchpoints with my customer. Creating small stickers inside the magazine would help entice the customer and add a bit more of a personal touch. I decided to print off past imagery I had created and ripped the borders off, creating a paper torn effect. Scanning these back using a printer, I was then able to print them out on small all sticker paper.
Once ripping up old imagery, I thought I could use this and create a much better/ stronger Looking front cover for my magazine. After laying the images onto Photoshop, I merged them into one cohesive idea. Using InDesign to create a new front cover for my magazine.
When presenting to the whole class we were asked to create brand boards showing off our entire project. My first brand board shows my customer profiles and target market research. My second brand board Shows off all the research behind my project and how I got to my outcome. Thirdly My fourth brand board shows every outcome I've done. My firth and the final board showed all my touchpoints. My first touchpoint was the stickers which will be encased in the magazine. My second touchpoint would be A5 cards of some photography within my magazine. My final touch print was the small resin block which I plan on giving I plan to give, which will help encourage and engage my customer with my magazine.
Evaluation - An Conversation with myself
What was hard in my research?
When trying to create target market research, I found it hard to find willing participants to fill out my survey happily. My older customer profile was much harder to make as fewer people from that demographic had social media, which was my primary way of interacting with them.
What made me choose certain materials to research?
Having the book ‘I Was Britpopped: The A-Z of Britpop’ helped me hugely in this project; not growing up during the 1990s, I had a lot of cultural and historical research to read up on. I Was Britpopped: The A-Z of Britpop was my guide on research as it had everything to do with Britpop inside. Although the study wasn't detailed, I was able to have an understanding of the general subject were about. Reading the overview, I was able to go deep in my research on a specific area.
How did my research interest my customer?
Collecting imagery that I felt would relate to my project would interest my customer. The research is much more visual and easy to comprehend than long essays, which they may not be interested in reading.
Was I in control of my research?
Taking 1 to 2 days out of my project, I could print all of my research out. I did this as I wanted to bind them all in folders and have all my research collated into subcategories overall. I feel that I was on top of my research, and I clearly understood what I wanted to research.
Did my outcomes/experiments become stronger through more in-depth planning?
I was planning to help understand what I wanted to create throughout this project. Planning allowed me to build up research Resources and inspiration for what I wanted to make. Without planning, I would have just thrown myself into the deep end and try to create something; however, the outcome would not be of interest. This was evident when first making my Suede shoot. With no planning, I couldn’t create an outcome with which I was happy. that suit was a real Turning Point and show me just how important planning is to create anything
Did I plan my project to make more sense and structure?
Although I didn't create brainstorms, I created checklists to help create more structure within my project. I didn't crate brainstorms as I find them too confusing, and all over the place, a list I feel is so much easier to read and understand. Having this checklist in place, I knew where I was going to start the research and how I would create an outcome. This helps me balance my time and not create structure within my outcomes and planning.
Was my project diverse?
At the start of my project, I had to self shoot as lockdown didn't allow me to go out and get models. This was a significant problem within my project as I couldn’t have a diverse range of people help me in my project. Once coming back into the building, I tried to take a lab and get as many ideas of everyone I could, including models styling and overall all help. Having people around me allowed me to explain my project differently as all I knew was myself for the first four weeks. Talking allowed me to open up my project and have people comment or give ideas to me, which I didn't previously think about.
Where’s my project sustainable?
Creating little props for this project, I didn't need many materials, making this project a lot more sustainable. Using clothes I already had to style on myself, I didn’t need to buy anything that would be wasteful.
Did I challenge myself using different materials throughout my project?
I didn't use different materials; however, I use other mediums to show my work. Using programs such as Photoshop, I was able to manipulate my images, creating abstract and different outcomes with my pictures. Throughout my project, there is very little tactile and hands-on work. A lot of my processes came through image manipulation. I chose not to use a wide range of materials as I thought that my customer would not appreciate something made by hand, but I would prefer it if it were done digitally.
Was my outcome a success?
Reflecting on my outcome, I feel that my magazine is a success. The Layout was the essential part of my success. Creating my layout, I wanted something that would reflect the 90s as my customer grew up during that time. I wanted my layout to reflect and make my customer remember their past. If I created a Layout that was too new and refined, it wouldn’t fit my brief. I chose to look at old magazines for inspiration to grasp what I wanted my magazine to look like. The way chapters are laid out in my outcome also clarifies my magazine. This, I feel, was a strong point as I planned out how I wanted my magazine to flow—showing all the contextual references before the styling gave my magazine order and structure. Building this contextual storey would help my second customer understand why the Britpop movement started. Although my imagery was strong, I felt the layout greatly impacted how the imagery would look. Both of these combined gave a real cohesion to my outcome, making it a success.
Did my outcome have context to help inform my customer?
I added small little captions within my outcome magazine where I described what was going on within each chapter. Adding captions allowed my Viewer to understand what happened during the 1990s. This gave context and a greater understanding of why specific images are in my magazine.
How did I document my development through this project?
Documenting my development process, I chose to take images of how my project evolved and record them in my sketchbook. Documenting contact sheets, I was able to look through and analyse which pictures I wanted to pursue further.
Did my project fit my customer’s needs?
Overall I think my outcome fits my customer’s needs related to both customers and provides knowledge for one and reflection for my second customer. I feel my customers would need my outcome as it guides how Britpop started and documented the events during the 1990s. Although I couldn’t print my magazine out, I would like to have them printed and sold to the customer.
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