The gates of heaven open at midnight and the spirits of the deceased begin their journey. Sidewalk shrines appear early in the morning, the ofrendas, or altars, a frenzied clutter of traditional breads sweetened and dusted in pink, sugared skulls and candied crosses, stacks of tortillas, and bottles of cerveza placed alongside photos of loved ones to entice the spirits of the dead to return home at least for one day each year.
Pungent orange cempasúchiles and papel picado, a delicate tissue paper intricately patterned and symbolizing the fragility of life, decorate each altar.
Food stalls line the streets, serving tamales, elotes, turkey moles, and traditional sweetened breads called pan de muerto, to entice and sustain the weary, both living and dead.
As dusk begins to fall, we make our way down the crowded cobblestone streets to the cemetery.
Stepping through the gates, you're overwhelmed with a cacophony of color, enormous floral bouquets and wreaths cascade through the cemetery, engulfing the monuments and headstones. Your senses are assaulted with the fragrance of lilies and roses mingling with the exotic aromas of traditional Mexican foods, the songs of musicians and a chorus of hundreds of voices remembering families and loved ones
Some trace the roots of this festival to the Aztecs who developed the ritual some 3,000 years ago in the belief that one should not grieve the loss of a beloved ancestor who passed. Mourning was not allowed because it was believed the tears would make the spirit's path treacherous and slippery.
As night falls more celebrations begin to unfold throughout the village.
Entire streets become works of art where the intricate artistry of sawdust "paintings" celebrate the lives of departed loved ones. In the morning they will all be swept away.
Even vintage cars are lovingly transformed into colorful memorials to the dearly departed.
The Wall of Skulls across the street from the church extends a full block and now wraps the corner onto a side street. Each skull is personalized (you can order one for yourself or a loved one) and when they are all illuminated at midnight by individual votive candles, it is truly spectacular (and more than a little spooky).