Except for the coast of Maine, there is no piece of land on the east coast of the United States that reaches further into the sea than Cape Cod. And there is no small community south of Maine lying further to the east than Provincetown.
Although its year round population is town sized - at about 3,000 - the 60,000 people who swarm in during the summer, its densely constructed buildings, and its high energy commerce, combine to make it possible to view Provincetown as a small city.
According to established history (which is generally under attack in the summer of 2020) the Pilgrims first landed here in 1620, looked around for a few weeks and decided to head north to take up permanent residence in what is now known as Plymouth. It is not the first time Provincetown has been abandoned, and such a history makes the location perfect for artists, other creative people and wanderers looking for cheap real estate in unique locations.
You might say Provincetown was Brooklyn, before Brooklyn was.
Around 1900, a well developed fishing industry began to fall apart in Provincetown after a strong storm. This kept the area rural and real estate prices low. By the 1960's, the town began to grow as an east coast destination for those who considered themselves part of the counter culture movement. Hippies.
Like San Francisco, over the decades, Provincetown's popularity forced property values higher and it is now a less accessible real estate market.
Above: Many of Provincetown's buildings date to the 1800's and represent a well-known New England style.
Commercial Street is the main avenue of life and commerce in Provincetown. It is jammed with artist studios, stores and restaurants. The vibe is typical of a coastal town in the summer. Lobster rolls for everyone. A t-shirt shop on every corner. History dotted here and there to remind visitors of how life used to be in communities along the Atlantic shore when whale oil was a primary commodity.
There is something alluring about a peninsula reaching into the sea that is more attractive than even an island. The Forks of Long Island. Tierra del Fuego. Dingle, Ireland. Baja California. Provincetown.
It is like running to the edge of a diving board without jumping off.
Above: A pier off Commercial Street.
© Dean Pagani - 2020
Credits:
© Dean Pagani 2020