My Sorrento stay didn’t have an auspicious start. My contact recommended taking a taxi from the port which took forever, due to traffic, and was expensive. The better alternative would have been the elevator from the port area to the city park, which I discovered the next day. Then, I just escaped being trapped in a tiny, European elevator when the power went out as I exited the lift in my apartment building. I guess that was good luck, not bad. The apartment I’d rented had several issues. Nothing horrible, but it dampened my enthusiasm a little. Luckily, a friend had recommended a nearby pizzeria, so I made my way down the stairs hoping the electricity would be on when I returned (it was). Once situated at a shared table, squeezed in between chattering locals, and enjoying the delicious pizza, all was well again.

Sorrento has many charms. There are incredible views of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius, which looms just across the bay; there are pleasant parks, outdoor restaurants, and ancient buildings; and, my favorite part, a crusty, old fishing area, Marina Grande.

Marina Grande was originally a separate village but is now incorporated within Sorrento. It’s still the heart and soul of the local fishing industry. It’s a short walk and a world away from Sorrento proper. Wide, terraced walkways lead down to a small sheltered shoreline, floating docks serve as “beaches”, and a dozen or so restaurants circle it all. When I visited prime fishing season was over so nets were piled or hung everywhere. A few boats were on the bay but most were pulled up on shore, abandoned until spring. Residences clung to the face of the surrounding cliff, motorbikes and small cars parked willy-nilly in random spots.

After exploring the area, I found a table where the land met the sea and relaxed into a big plate of mussels and a small pitcher of wine. On the return to my apartment I discovered a shop selling limoncello and other local specialties, like honey flavored by lemon flower nectar, so I stocked up on gifts for friends and family. I need more of that honey!