Angel's Crest is a popular climbing route up the varied arête on the right side of the Chief's North Gully in Squamish, British Columbia. Elizabeth had always wanted to climb the Chief - bottom to top - so I suggested Angel's Crest (13 pitch, 10b). When she hired a guide I eagerly volunteered to accompany her up the Chief. It would be my second time climbing Angel's Crest.
The Adventure Begins
On a fine September morning we meet our guide, Ian Middleton, and drive to the trailhead. To reach the base of Angel's Crest we hike a steep trail through forest but a 2015 rock fall high off the North Walls devastated the upper part of the trail. We cautiously scramble through a boulder field to reach the base of the climb.
The approach trail to Angel's Crest requires scrambling through debris caused by the massive 2015 rockfall from the upper region of Zodiac Wall.
Climbing!
There are three starts to the climb so for a good warmup we choose the hardest option (10b) with tricky face moves past bolts leading to cracks then easier terrain to the base of Angel's Crack.
Angel's Crack
The second pitch - Angel's Crack, 10b - follows a diagonal hand crack with a layback crux at the top. On my previous climb up Angel's crack I got suckered to go left at the crux when the correct sequence is to stay right and reach for the horn at the top of the crack. Again I stupidly move left and away from the jug that gets you past the crux.
Ian strings pitches 3 and 4 together. It begins with perplexing 10b face climbing to a fun finger crack and ends on a slabby arête.
The next series of pitches climb blocks, cracks, and corners providing plenty of variety.
After pitch 8 we hike uphill through the forest past the short totem pole to the base of the iconic Acrophobes.
The Acrophobes Pitch
We eat lunch at the base of a tower of low-angled granite called the Acrophobes. The sun lights the trees and the top of the tower making this a highlight pitch despite its easy grade (5.5).
Acrophobes
The Acrophobes pitch starts up a low angled slab with plenty of crack holds, then traverses a spine to another tower. The climbing is mellow but the views outstanding.
At the top of the Acrophobes we rappel down the other side of the tower to begin the final pitches.
Final Pitches
Pitch 12 (10a/b) starts by scrambling up cedar roots then climbing past a bulge to enter a great hand crack. Before starting this pitch Elizabeth dons XL sized crack gloves. This is certainly my favourite pitch.
The final pitch is an exciting traverse over an exposed boulder then some stemming with back and feet shuffling up the walls of the chimney finally reaching a welcome horizontal crack and then easier climbing to the top of Second Peak on the Chief.
On Second Peak
Nine and half hours after starting the climb up Angel's Crest we stand triumphant on Second Peak. The sun sits low in the west throwing a warm glow across the rock and trees. We stroll leisurely across the granite slabs enjoying the views.
Credits:
Photography by Wolf Eilers with contributions from Elizabeth