I do not think I have had occasion to use the word fjord or the word archipelago since fifth grade geography class, but on my recent trip to Iceland and the Faroe Islands I had reason to use both. It fact, it was necessary.
The Faroe Islands are an archipelago nation 400 miles southeast of Iceland and 200 miles north of Scotland. About 50,000 people live there. They have their own language: Faroese, but if you visit, the Faroe Islanders also speak English and are happy to do so without resentment.
The islands are largely self-governing, but part of the Kingdom of Denmark. Since I was in Iceland, it seemed a good opportunity to explore another remote place not everyone has heard of, so I took the 90 minute flight from Reykjavik to Vagar.
I stayed in the capital city of Torshavn, about 40 minutes from the airport, in a wonderful apartment I found online. From my window I could see the main buildings of the downtown area and was within walking distance of restaurants and grocery stores.
The Faroe Islands are much, much smaller than they appear on a map of the world, or the North Atlantic. I was surprised to learn by driving, that I could essentially cover most of the country - the major islands - in two or three days using Torshavn as a base and returning each evening.
The biggest islands are connected by road, bridge and some remarkable tunnels. Others can be reached by ferry. There are almost 800 islands in all, but some so small or remote, there is no reason for the average tourist to want to visit.
The islands are at the north end of the Gulf Stream so even in winter the temperatures stay in the 40Fs. In late June, when I was there, temperatures were in the 50Fs and that is standard in the summer.
Nearly every day begins with fog hanging over the highest peaks of the islands. I was there for six days and saw the sun on only three. It is possible for one island to be completely fogged in for the entire day and for the island across the channel to be in the sunshine for most of the day.
As an island nation, fishing and fish farming is the biggest industry. Perhaps you've purchased Faroe salmon at your local grocery store. This is where it comes from. Tourism is another big business, but most of the tourists seem to be from Europe and many are on group bus trips.
The easiest way to see everything, on your own and at your own pace, is by renting a car, which is what I did. Hiking, either on your own or with a guide, is the next best way to experience the islands and I ran into many fellow travelers climbing to the highest peaks or seeking out the most dramatic waterfalls.
Once you leave the main city, the Faroe Islands are sparsely populated. As you drive the country you will spot small towns along the coast with populations in the hundreds at most. Almost always there is a church with a red roof and prominent steeple with a graveyard to one side.
The homes are small and simple. Most are painted black or red and many have a layer of grass on the roof. In June, many of the grass roofs were sprouting patches of buttercups just like the surrounding fields.
Unless you have specific plans to hike all the major routes on the Faroe Islands, I think it is safe to say a five to six day visit is enough. This gives you enough time to see most of the major attractions and complete three to four significant treks to some of the most popular locations.
Bring plenty of outdoor clothing options. Dress in layers. Temperatures and conditions can change rapidly on the trail. You can begin a trek in warm sunlight and then be swept up in a strong wind and rain storm as your elevation and proximity to the sea change.
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© Dean Pagani 2021
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© Dean Pagani