Modular wood structures (MWS): We designed and built a new kind of modular wood structure earlier this year, purposely design to be built and installed by volunteers without the need for heavy equipment. Each MWS consists of a main trunk with a series of bored holes, into which branches are inserted and then pinned in place using hardwood dowel. The MWS also has provisions for hardwood stakes to attach it to the bed to remain firmly in place. The whole structure is kept in pieces to assist with transport and is assembled on site. Several of these structures can be placed close together to form a larger wood structure. So far, we have observed barnacles, algae and grazing snails colonising the surfaces, while shrimp, prawns and fish including bream, mullet, hardy-heads, and salmon-trout have observed swimming in close proximity.

The next stage

As part of the next stage of our activities, we are about to embark on monitoring of our works as it provides an opportunity to observe, assess and improve on the way we undertake restoration. It is also quite fun, very interesting and informative to learn about how fish respond to our actions. We are currently monitoring with cameras, but we would like to build on that into the future with other monitoring tools. Keep in touch with us through Facebook, where you can follow our progress and get a great glimpse into the underwater world of the Onkaparinga.

The Gear

For this type of fishing, a good quality 7ft, 1-3kg or 2-4kg line class rod matched with a 2500 sized spin reel is ideal. The reel should be spooled with 4lb-8lb braid connected to a light leader of fluorocarbon in the 2lb to 4LB line class range.

In the shallow canal’s soft plastic baits in sizes 2” to 2.5” are the preferred option. Popular are Z-Man Grubz in in Motor Oil, Watermelon Red and Violet Sparkle colours.

When rigging soft plastics for this type of fishing, the motto is “The lighter the better”. Overall, a 1/20 jig head is ideal. Hidden weight systems (HWS) in a 1/28 is are also very good, particulalry for skimming soft plastics into hard to reach and crammed spots and for suspending a bit, rather than dropping faster.

Technique

The best time to fish is when bream actively feed, such as early morning and late afternoon. In terms of tides water movement is key, with 1 hour up to peak-high tide or 1 hour after peak-high on the run-out being particularly productive. Overall conditions are ideal when the previously mentioned times and tides coincide (e.g. early morning from 1 hour up to peak-tide). It should be noted, however, that dead-low tide can also be productive, as bream will often school up and remain within the canal system, preferring to rest in the deeper channels.

When fishing these canals, you need to remember that not only is the water shallow but also clear. This means fish can see you! And they spook easily! Therefore, it is best to stay out of the water and keep your movements along the shore as measured as possible. Sometimes the bream are so skittish that you may even need to crouch and cast.

Often bream will be holed-up, waiting for small baitfish and other food sources to pass by. Therefore, the best way to find them is to cover ground. A good method is to make 3-5 casts in a location, casting a few times straight ahead as close to the other side of the shore as possible, then cast on a 45° angle back toward where you’ve just been, then cast on a 45° angle toward where you’ll move to next. Once you’ve made a few casts in these directions move along the shore a few metres and repeat the process. Try to utilise the wind to your advantage, by casting with it to your back to greatly improve your casting distance.

As previously said, soft plastics are the preferred baits for this type of fishing. When retrieving soft plastics, a good idea is to vary the presentation technique to see what the bream are hitting. There are four retrieves you can mix up with:

1. Standard hop/whip directly up off bottom and slow flutter to bottom.
2. Sideways twitch (dragging along the bottom)
3. The "burn n drop’- cast, rapid retrieve for a few metres then drop to the bottom.
4. Slow roll with twitches.

Use each technique and mix it up throughout the session to find the preferred method on the day.

Good start purchased and added to the kit. One issue to resolve. You’re out in the middle of the bay and need to change a leader or fly. Got the right bag, but how to manage a 9’ rod that likes to be in the way. You need both hands free, but how. I’ve got to credit my wife for the last piece of the puzzle…… Velcro straps. Sewn into the spine of the bag I can strap the rod to the bag before I open it and have my hands free to do the work. This was such a big deal for me, less stress when fishing means more enjoyment all round.

Ratchet Straps

The next is one for boat owners and might just save you from needless damage to your boat. What I’m talking about is the fact that many of us don’t secure the transom of the boat to the trailer. This can mean that the rear of the boat can bounce and will eventually cause cracking in the hull. The rougher you travel, the quicker this can happen and the last thing you want on a trip it to arrive at your destination with a leaking hull.

The solution is easy, all you need to do is use a set of ratchet straps to tie the transom down to the boat. Is doesn’t need to be too tight, just tight enough to stop the bouncing. One thing to be careful of is rubbing on the hull with the straps. The best thing I’ve found is to use some old, neoprene stubby holders and cover the ratchets and against the hull to protect paint if required.

Mini Shopping Baskets

Are you someone with an ali or fibreglass deck? The next tip is great for those of us in this situation. For me it was a Ranger Saltwater Series Bass hull. Love the boat, but one thing that used to bug me was a way to have things on the deck and not have them slide around the place. I found mini shopping baskets so I could have my plastics close at hand as well a jig heads, scissors and more.

After trial and error, I came across an idea I used in my campers. Found at Bunnings, rubber matting lined along the bottom of the cabinets stops things from moving around too much when travelling. So, take the idea a step further and glue it to the bottom of the baskets and you have the ideal non-slip surface.

2-Piece Rod Bag

Not all of us have a boat big enough to store a few set up 9’ fly rods. So, what to do? Quick and easy this one and it’s been staring us in the face the whole time and it doesn’t take up a lot of space. Simple, a 2-piece rod bag. As a tinny owner myself I keep 2 rods set up and in 2 pieces in a rod bag. Easy to access and get back in the water.

Arc Light

Last one for this session is one of my all-time favourites. As a fly tier myself and someone who’s vision isn’t all it’s cracked up to be, I was always on the lookout for a way to make things easier. The trouble with most traditional light sources is that cast in a single direction and with our flies and vices being 3D can mean we are competing with shadows at different times.

The challenge has always been to get a light that can cover all angles and not be too bulky. As such, the arc light was born.