From a respectful distance I stood in the mid-afternoon sun along the Ganges River in Varanasi watching families oversee the cremation of their loved ones.
According to my tour guide for the cremation site, no one ever cries during this ceremony because it would upset the soul of the dead. Since thousands of families come here each month to send their family members to the next life and since that means countless souls have ascended from this place over the centuries, my guide confidently told me, "This is the holiest place on earth."
It is the most spiritual place in India.
The city of Varanasi is a place where both life and death are celebrated on a daily basis. Beginning at 4a.m., the faithful of several religions, but mainly Hindu, come to bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges River. A set of steps stretching about a mile descend toward the river from the city side.
This was perhaps the most meaningful stop for me on my trip through India, because I remember learning about the Ganges in about 5th grade. I couldn't believe what I was being told back then. That people bathe in the river, wash dead bodies in the river, cremate the dead along its banks and then sweep the remains into the same river.
Above: Lower left of top photo, a family prepares a body for cremation. Center: the wood used for the cremation process comes from several locations in India and is oily in its composition. Bottom: A mix of ashes and flowers in the Ganges near the cremation site.
Because I did not have advance permission, I wasn't allowed to photograph any cremations up close. I did walk among the dead bodies lying on the steps of the river being prepared for cremation and very close to several burning bodies. I can tell you that the flames are very hot. So hot you must shield your face from the heat as you walk by. There is a casualness to the scene. Little deference is shown to the dead or their families. People move about the cremation area as if it is a big public mall.
Depending on the size of the body it can take up to four hours to completely burn. Often all that is left of women's bodies are the hip bones and all that is left of a man's body is the breast bone. If either does survive the fire the bones are simply thrown into the Ganges River.
A few weeks earlier I was able to take closer range photos at a cremation site in Nepal. Those pictures are in the grid below.
While death and its aftermath are a major part of religious life along the Ganges, each evening there is a Hindu ceremony performed along the riverbank known as Aarti. It is a celebration of the Gods and life.
Above: A family lights its own candle during an evening prayer ceremony on the Ganges. Center photos: Hindu men and women pray as the Aarti ceremony is performed by several male celebrants. Bottom: Following the ceremony participants place their hands over candle flames and then run their hands over their face and through their hair.
So much of the industry of Varanasi is tied to the river. Religious excursions by people from all over India, tourists from all over the world, movement of cargo and fishing are the major economic activities. The inner city is an open market of street vendors and shopkeepers.
I also had a guide with me as I toured the city itself. He is a Varanasi native and very proud of the history of his town which dates to the 11th century B.C. As we moved through the city's narrow streets and various quarters my guide would often stretch out his hands and in a deep voice declare, "THIS - was Varanasi," as if he was seeing into the past and seeing a great city that has lost its place in the world.
I asked him why he kept saying "this was" Varanasi instead of "this is." I thought it was possible he was simply mis-speaking. But he explained Varanasi was once a great city of trade, commerce and culture, but it has become a city of struggle for most people and has failed to move into the modern world. That however, does not take away from Varanasi's greatness or its importance to spiritual life in India.
If you go to Varanasi I would recommend staying in the best hotel you can find to ensure your comfort in what is a very crowded city. I also recommend an early morning walk on the Ganges (5a.m.) followed by a boat ride at sunrise.
I always assumed the Ganges would not be clean considering all its uses, but in fact due to the strong flow of the water I found it to be very clean and was tempted to take a dip in the river myself.
Credits:
© Dean Pagani 2019