Much to my surprise, I have discovered that I am enamoured of Hamlet’s 'bourn from which no traveler returns’. Hamlet's 'undiscovered country' is, of course, Death. On my own travels, I seek out the various resting places of those who have journeyed beyond this world. In a nutshell, I have become an habitué of cemeteries. Not just any old cemeteries but ones that speak volumes about how different cultures think about Death.
Come with me to Recoleta cemetery in Buenos Aires and the Necropolis in Glasgow. Here the movers and shakers of these large cities provided for themselves in death in the same way they provided for themselves in life - in fine style.
They created cities of the dead.
Glasgow's Necropolis was built at the same time as the Recoleta in Buenos Aires - early nineteenth century. Glaswegian businessmen who had profited from the Industrial revolution were carried in a horse-drawn carriage across the Bridge of Sighs to be buried high up on the hill overlooking the cathedral and the city.
The Argentinian and the Glaswegian wealthy built mausoleums to house themselves and their families in the afterlife.
The first mausoleum, at Halicarnassus (Bodnum in present day Turkey), was built to commemorate the life of King Mausolus who died in 353 BC. King Mausolus’ tomb, erected by his wife (who was also his sister), was so replete with sculptures in granite, marble and sandstone that it became one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It remained almost intact until an earthquake in the thirteenth century finished it off. A few pieces remain in the British Museum in London.
The nouveau wealthy of Buenos Aires and Glasgow were not to be outdone. The Argentinians imported marble from Milan and sculptors from Paris. Artists in stained glass were also kept busy.
The Glaswegian mausleums are baroque but a bit more restrained in the use of colour. Perhaps the watchful eye of John Knox (Protestant Reformer and leader of the Presbyterian Church in Scotland) reigned in their extravagance. But again, it could have been the weather.
Credits:
All photography by Janet B. Webster AKA the Silver Nomad