As usual Dave had an idea. How about the North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park? Last year we hiked the spectacular volcanic landscape of Edziza Provincial Park so it would be difficult to top that adventure. How about some coastal hiking in the temperamental northern tip of Vancouver Island? Great idea but what's the most consistent description of the North Coast Trail? Mud, of course. Lots of mud.
The North Coast Trail is like the West Coast Trail in the '70s.
Gateway to the North Coast Trail
Port Hardy
With hopeful glances at the weather forecast we pack the car and head to the ferry terminal in Horseshoe Bay on a perfect summer day.
At Nanaimo we depart the ferry and drive 390 km to Port Hardy where, surprisingly, the sun continues to shine brightly. I thought it always rained in northern Vancouver Island. We check into the hostel but continue to cross our fingers. Rain means mud. Lots of mud.
Early next morning we arrive at the harbour to meet our water taxi that will take us to the trailhead in Shushartie Bay. Along with two other hikers we lug our packs on board. The four hikers don't say much because it's early and the sky is overcast and because, well, mud. Possibly, lots of mud. We see an eagle perched on a buoy in the harbour entrance and several Harbour porpoise in the channel. Someone claims to see a large fluke off the starboard side.
Shushartie Overland
Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek
The taxi eases close to the rocky shoreline allowing four hikers to exit. We notice the North Coast Trail (NCT) welcome sign, a red payment box, and the alarmingly steep start to the trail.
I shoulder my pack and start uphill grabbing a rope and haul myself up onto a stump. I look back and see the water taxi floating in the bay. Apparently, the passengers find it amusing to watch us struggle when moments ago we were dozing in our seats.
Of course we immediately get lost. At the top of the initial steep section we find a camp with several tent pads in the forest and a food cache locker. At the cache we spot a trail to our right and foolishly follow it for 10 minutes before realizing that it can't possibly be the correct trail. We retrace our steps back to the cache and see the correct trail going uphill. So uphill we go. Up ropes, over logs, under logs, around logs, through mud, around mud, scramble up and scramble down roots, logs, and stumps. Repeat.
Don't let the boardwalks fool you. They were brief and in sections of the trail that did not seem to need them. After a seemingly long time we had not reached the half-way marker so stopped on a boardwalk for lunch. When we reach the 4.3 km half-way marker we are shocked to discover that it had taken 3 hours to hike this short distance.
Skinner Creek Camp
After slogging for another 3 hours through treacherous terrain - during which Dave fell and broke a hiking pole - we hear a pounding surf in the distance. We descend to Skinner Creek and see the ocean behind a massive logjam. We perform a final under/over/around logs ritual to reach the beach. Six hours to hike 8.7 km. Ugh!
We quickly find a camp spot on the sand west of Skinner Creek hidden among the logs that are strewn beside the creek.
Nahwitti Stretch
Day 2: Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil
We awake after a restful sleep with sun peeking through broken clouds. Hundreds of seagulls crowd the beach and fill the sky attracted to the fresh water of Skinner Creek.
The next leg of the trail follows Skinner Beach then scrambles steeply into the forest. Soon we descend to cross a pocket beach then back into the forest to reach a camp site at Nahwitti River.
A short walk beyond the camp we reach a cable car crossing the Nahwitti River. I load my pack onto the car and hop on board. Whoosh! Off I go and off go Dave's hiking poles, falling from the car into the river below. He scrambles to the river and fishes the floating poles from the water.
The next section of the trail progresses uphill to a ridge followed by challenging terrain that slows our progress. Eventually we reach Long Leg Hill and descend down a steep hill and stairs to stop at scenic Tripod Beach for lunch and mental relaxation.
Between the small pocket beaches we scramble across headlands finally arriving at a beach with Cape Sutil in view.
Cape Sutil Camp
We walk on pristine white sand to the camp near Cape Sutil with a blue sky overhead and gentle waves lapping the beach. We set up camp on the sand above the high tide mark and spend the rest of the day exploring and relaxing. It had taken 6 hours to hike 7.3 km, a pace slower than the previous day.
Cape Sutil
Cape Sutil is the northern most point on Vancouver Island. We arrive on a sun blessed afternoon with a crescent sand beach embracing placid turquoise water - a tropical ambiance.
Sutil Scramble
Day 3: Cape Sutil to Shuttleworth Bight
The morning arrives with sea mist enveloping the camp keeping everything damp. Once on the trail the weather improves but not the forest trail. It is what it is. We spend more time hiking on beaches than previous days. The coastal views are a welcome relief from the confining forest but the extensive stretches of insecure cobblestones become tiresome.
After crossing a tombolo we stop for lunch at a scenic cove.
Shuttleworth Bight Camp
We arrive at Shuttleworth Bight and set up camp on the beach feet away from the high tide mark.
Magic sunset at Shuttleworth Bight
We sit on the beach and watch the sun slide behind a wisp of cloud then sink into the ocean casting an enchanting glow across the sea and sky.
Christensen Coast & Nahwitti Cone
Day 4: Shuttleworth Bight to Nissen Bight
As usual the morning begins with overcast skies but no sea mist so our gear and tent remain dry. The plan is to hike to Laura Creek camp but the previous night several people hiking from the other direction suggested pushing directly to Nissen Bight, a distance of about 19 km. We shoulder our packs and march determinedly down the beach.
Hiking to Laura Creek
We use a cable car to cross the Strandby River and successfully do so without loss of gear.
When we reach Laura Creek I initially feel unmotivated to continue further but an inspection of the camp (and the wolf and cougar prints) convince us to press on to Nissen Bight.
The final 7.5 km to Nissen Bight involves hiking in the forest bypassing Nahwitti Cone and Laughing Loon Lake. In addition to mud and diversions that slow us down we encounter for the first time evidence of the corduroy (log) road built by early settlers.
Nissen Bight Camp
The North Coast Trail ends at the eastern end of the beach at Nissen Bight. The official camp - with pit toilet and food cache - is 1 km down the beach. However, the water source is a creek at the eastern end of the beach. We decide to stay near the creek and find a sunny secluded spot above the high tide mark near the forest.
Another dream sunset
Nels Bight and Guise Bay
Day 5: Hiking in Cape Scott Park
We awake to a cloudless sky predicting the beginnings to a perfect day. The previous night we agreed to keep our excellent camp at Nissen Bight and hike into the western sections of the park.
This part of the park contains evidence of Danish settlers attempting to tame the land in the early 20th century.
Nels Bight
Nels Bight is the largest and most popular beach in the park with a crescent shaped swath of sand stretching 2 km.
Guise Bay
At Guise Bay we explore the beach and grassy sand dunes then enjoy a lunch of cheese, fish, and sausage.
Back in Nissen Bight Camp
After our 20 km exploration of the park we return to Nissen Bight and congratulate ourselves in maintaining our camp at the terminus of the North Coast Trail. What a location!
No sunset is the same
For a third successive evening we are witness to the celestial phenomenon of the Earth spinning out of Sol's light. Sunset!
San Josef Camp
San Josef Bay is about 3 km from the parking lot and is accessed by a trail that can accurately be described as sidewalk quality. The North Coast Trail is now far away (but not forgotten). We pick a camp spot nestled in the trees away from the wind and sun and setup the hammock. Vacation time!
Another adventure ends
Blue sky days, moody misty mornings, rugged log-strewn coastline linked by long stretches of sandy beaches and scenic coves, vibrant sunsets, lush forest, steep headlands, challenging trails, crashing waves, cobblestones singing in the surging tide, striking campsites, the endless roar of the surf, wispy clouds lace the sky while swooping seagulls ride the swirling winds. And the mud? Was there mud?
Credits:
Photography by Wolf Eilers with contributions by Dave McKie