Cambodia was my second stop on a tour through southeast Asia, immediately after nearly a month in Vietnam, so it is hard for me to escape making a direct comparison. Yet I am aware such a comparison is unfair, because the two countries are so different in their history and development.
Let me begin by saying Cambodia's capital and largest city - Phnom Penh - is quieter than the major cities of Vietnam, a bit more ordered, but not so ordered that you feel you have entered an advanced economy or system of government.
Like Vietnam, Cambodia is seeing more foreign investment and it is seen as an emerging economy. One German visitor I spoke with said he can see how the skyline of Phnom Penh has changed since the last time he was here ten years ago. And even a first time visitor can see construction cranes putting new buildings into place and a rising glass city of modern architecture along the Mekong River.
I arrived in the capital after a very difficult series of van rides from Kampot along the southern coast of the country. The road system from the south into Phnom Penh is poor and lined with the shanty towns I became familiar with in the countryside of Vietnam. Yes, there are beautiful vistas in the agricultural flat lands that run up to distant mountains. The mountains remind me of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the United States, but close to the road, people live in poverty and less than healthy conditions.
I think it is important to point this out for several reasons. First, if you are thinking about coming to Cambodia, because you have romantic notions about what it is like you should know what you are getting into. Secondly, I think it is important to ask, who is responsible for this? Cambodia has natural resources and other assets that position it to do well in this region if not internationally, but for some reason it is held back with a large portion of a population of 15 million people making about $3,000 per year.
The tourist economy is growing. The major attractions are in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap to the northwest and closer to the Thai border. Buddhism is the major religion here. Ninety-five percent of Cambodians practice the faith. Buddhist temples, or wats, are a major draw. In the capital, so is the Royal Palace, whose grounds include the Silver Pagoda. The king of Cambodia actually lives in the palace so part of it is not accessible to tourists.
Another major destination is the killing fields at the Choeung-Ek Genocidal Center and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh. Both places tell the story of the genocide that took place between 1975-1979 under the regime of Pol Pot. The museum is a former school building that was used as a prison. Choeung-Ek is about a half hour away and is the location where close to 1.5 million people were killed. A total of 2 million people lost their lives during this period. Visiting either location can be an emotionally draining experience. (I will have more on the history and the experience of visiting in a separate story in a few days).
It bothered me in Vietnam, but it really bothered me in Cambodia. The disparity between the rich and the poor, the number of people living in poverty and the flaunted wealth of the government. During my stay, the president of Hungary was visiting. Although the streets are filled with small children playing in unsanitary conditions, thousands of people making their living driving tuk tuks, and others collecting garbage along the river in the hope of finding something of value - no expense was spared in preparing the center of the city for the arrival of the leader of Hungary. Which means that when the one-party leadership of Cambodia decides something is important they find the money to make a difference.
At the same time there is very little evidence of investment in public services like roads and utilities, or programs to help the poor, of which there are many. One young man I spoke with said the only way to succeed in his country is if your family has been successful previously. You get ahead, by starting the race before everyone else.
Above: The grounds of the Royal Palace.
There is also a noticeable upper class of people who don't ride bicycles as their primary means of transportation, hire tuk tuks, or drive scooters. Instead they drive luxury cars and expensive SUV's and they move about town with an obvious sense of entitlement. It was upsetting to me as a tourist, because most of Cambodian society is living at subsistence levels and children are among those hurt the most. Their future is being robbed from them in plain sight.
At the edge of the Mekong River is a brand new hotel where very few in Cambodia can afford to stay. On the other side, residents of the city fish for dinner and search for discarded materials they can turn into cash. From the street level you can see none of the trash and none of the suffering. From the street level you see what looks like a lovely promenade along the water. No one in charge has deemed it necessary or important to make this public space live up to its potential and benefit everyone.
There are many countries in the world like Cambodia. There are many tourist destinations that struggle with poverty beyond the gates of expensive resorts, but I think it's important to point out the unfairness of it all in strong terms so that the message is unmistakable. There is no need for so many to be living in such harsh conditions when others are living so comfortably. If you plan on traveling here you should be aware of all you will see and experience.
There are great places to eat, interesting places to visit, and important things to learn. At the very least, Cambodia is an eye opening experience that illustrates one of the most important questions of our time: Economic fairness. The people who live here deserve better.
Credits:
© Dean Pagani 2019