The name itself is older than the Spanish conquest of Mexico. In the Nahuatl language the name means "place between two rivers", in Tamahumara the reference is to "a dry and sandy place", but the most common reference to the name of the city is the most appropriate.
Ah, Chihuahua! Wow!
I had assumed that the city of Chihuahua was simply a dusty little puebla a few hours South of the Rio Grande. It is in fact a vibrant city of a million people with a rich artistic culture, a fascinating history and magnificent architecture.
The majestic cathedral of the Holy Cross, Our Lady of Regla, and St. Francis of Assisi presides over the bustle of the Plaza de Armas. The Spanish Baroque exterior is considered the finest example of colonial architecture in northern Mexico, and behind its marvelous facade are an astonishing amalgam of Carrara marble altars, Venetian glass chandeliers, magnificent windows from Germany, exquisite retablos, and centuries old, intricately carved figures of angels and saints.
The first stone was laid in 1725 but it would be another 100 years before it was completed in 1826, much of the funding having incongruously been diverted to the ongoing wars with the Apaches and Comanches.
One of the many small chapels in the cathedral has a niche with an image of the Black Christ of Mapimi, which was formerly housed in the original temple that was located on this same spot.
As is evident throughout much of Mexico, the juxtaposition of Mexican primitive and Spanish baroque styles in this extraordinary retablo is fascinating. The mingling of these two great cultures was not always so harmonious.
There are many other chapels and altars within the cathedral dedicated to the veneration of Our Lady of Regla and her supplicants San Francisco de Asis and Rita de Cascia, both patrons of the city, as well as a seemingly endless collection of martyrs and saints.
The message to all who come here is carved in stone above the south transept, and it is explicit: The only way to escape the fires of eternal damnation is to relinquish one's earthly cares and possessions, and embrace the magnificence of the Catholic Church.
Exiting the cathedral we reluctantly stepped away from the promised sanctuary and salvation and stepped forward 200 years into the bustling metropolis of current day Chihuahua.
Surprisingly we saw only two Chihuahuas in Chihuahua. One was spelled out in a city park, the other was on the side of an office tower.
Palacio de Gobierno (The Government Palace of Chihuahua) houses the executive offices of the governor of the state of Chihuahua. The courtyard of this handsome, 19th century structure features striking murals by Aarón Piña Mora documenting Chihuahua’s highly eventful history.
The building is a landmark in the city as it contains a shrine commemorating the execution of Miguel Hidalgo, considered the Father of the Country, who died at the hands of a Spanish firing squad here on July 30, 1811. The Altar de la Patria is located at the exact spot where Hidalgo died.
A few blocks away, The Basilica, is named for St Francis of Assisi. Its architecture is typical of Franciscan missions, very simple and serene, and always painted in tones of white in accordance with the Franciscan policy of austerity.
What happened to that notion of simplicity once everyone got inside, I have no idea. Perhaps the joys of austerity could no longer be suppressed, or maybe I got the photos mixed up.
In 1811 the beheaded body of Fr Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, considered the 'Father of the Nation', was intombed in the West Chapel of the temple after his execution by the Spanish.
The fascination of the city is seemingly endless. In another quarter of the city Quinta Gameros, an incredibly elaborate belle epoque architectural wonder was built by a wealthy mine owner at the turn of the century. The home, now a museum, is filled with a mix of period furnishings and art. Every room is unique and the quality of the stained glass, carved wood and moldings are exceptional.
Chihuahua was the starting point of our journey through the Copper Canyon (Barrancas del Cobre), and it is a fascinating place, it's history long and colorful. Poncho Villa lived here and his exploits and adventures are legendary. Quinta Luz, Pancho Villa's 48-room former mansion is here, and the bullet-riddled black Dodge that Villa was driving when he was murdered is parked in the back courtyard. After his assassination in 1923, twenty five of Villa’s ‘wives’ filed claims for his estate.
" Don't let it end like this, tell them I said something." - The dying words of Poncho Villa
Ahhh, Chihuahua!
Chihuahua, Mexico - October 2017