The islands of Haida Gwaii are shrouded in mist, covered with lush forest and moss, and ringed by the angry north Pacific Ocean. It is home to the myth inspiring raven, spiritual ts'áak' (bald eagle), the life-source salmon, and home to the Haida. And it's darn hard to get to. Three of us drive 1500 km from Vancouver to Prince Rupert while one other wisely flies directly to Prince Rupert. After a short visit to Prince Rupert we all board the overnight ferry to Haida Gwaii.
Queen Charlotte
After disembarking weary eyed from the ferry we drive the short distance to Queen Charlotte village. We discover that our accommodation - one night in a seaside home outside QC and three nights at The Abundant Abode overlooking the harbour - require no keys. No need to fuss with keys but we do need to ensure that the door to our home remain unlocked when leaving! Several locals gently instruct us that we are now on island time and that the pace here is more mellow than in Vancouver.
No Ninstints for us
Our primary intent while on Haida Gwaii was to visit the old Haida village of Ninstints (also called S'G̱ang Gwaay or Nan Sdins or Skungwai or Quee-ah) and our weather expectations included some rain. Instead we experience sunny skies, colourful sunsets, lots of beach and forest hikes, great food, but no chance to get to Ninstints. Gale force winds on Hecate Strait prevent our inflatable boat from leaving harbour. Fortunately that gave us one extra day to explore the islands.
QC village
The Queen B's café quickly became a favourite spot for coffee, chai, waffles, and sweets. They feature a Canadiano coffee - an Expresso topped with drip coffee - that was surprisingly smooth and most welcome the morning after the overnight ferry.
Haida Heritage Centre
To get our feet grounded and to learn about the Haida we head to the Haida Heritage Centre near Skidegate. The centre - built in the manner of a traditional Haida village with longhouses and totem poles - contains an exceptional museum and a popular bistro.
During our visit a Haida local explains the symbolism of figures carved in each totem. The ambiance and gorgeous day allow us to admire the poles while our host dryly recites his speech yet again.
Haida art is familiar but seen in the home of the Haida it becomes alive.
Balance Rock
Just north of Skidegate village we park at a pullout along the Yellowhead Highway and scramble down a short trail to the beach and immediately see a large boulder precariously balanced on another rock. Over several days at different hours and tides we visit Balance Rock to capture its mood. Surprisingly there is little in Haida lore about the rock likely because of smallpox epidemics that killed much of the local population and its oral history. How did the rock get to its balancing spot? A receding glacier of course.
Anvil Trail
Leaving Balance Rock we head north toward Tlell to hike the Anvil Trail. This trail follows the Tlell River as it slowly flows along an anvil shaped course through the forest and swamps. On our hike we see trees - Sitka spruce, Western hemlock, Western red cedar, and alder - rising toward the sky and pass by uprooted trees. On a steep section of the trail we descend with a rope and later spot a young eagle perched on a moss covered branch near the river.
Pesuta Shipwreck
The next day we head back north to hike a forested ridge and then walk beside the Tlell River as it flows toward Hecate Strait along East Beach. From a distance we see a black object and declare it to be the Pesuta shipwreck. The Pesuta was a log barge wrecked during a winter storm in 1928. We pass fishers angling for coho salmon in the river, spot deer on the opposite bank, and see trucks navigate the sand dunes.
We see the Pesuta in the distance while fishers try their luck.
We eat our lunch in the shade of the Pesuta and spend an hour exploring the wreck and meet other hikers all intent on photographing a barge that is now a major tourist attraction.
A shipwreck: a photographers dream.
Hiking on Moresby Island
Today was to be our day visiting Ninstints but during the previous evening it was confirmed that the trip would be cancelled due to gale force winds. Instead we take the small ferry to Aliford Bay on Moresby Island and hike the Haans Loop (aka Dover Trail) near Sandspit.
We find the trailhead and immediately enter a dreamy forest surrounding the placid Haans Creek.
During the hike we see a sign with the warning "400m to waterfall hard trail" and immediately detour to find the waterfall.
A waterfall, or is it?
We enjoy the 'hard 400m' back to the main trail. On the return trek we marvel at several giant Sitka spruce along the trail.
Before boarding the ferry back to Skidegate Landing we stop for lunch at Onward Point.
Masset
On day four of our stay on Haida Gwaii we travel to the northern end of Graham Island to visit Masset and the area around Tow Hill in Naikoon Provincial Park. But first we drive to Old Masset to find a local café rumoured to be rarely open. It wasn't open.
Driving to the end of Raven Ave we spot an eagle on a post and rush from the car with our cameras at the ready. The iconic bird stands on the post his white plumed head twisting to survey the surroundings.
Naikoon Provincial Park
In need of morning refreshment we drive toward Tow Hill in the hope of finding the Moon Over Naikoon Bakery open. It was.
Cape Fife Trail
If you do one trail on Haida Gwaii it must certainly be the one starting at Tow Hill and ending at Cape Fife on East Beach. You don't need to hike the full 10 km to the cape since the forest immediately envelops the senses and never lets go.
With a sea mist draping the tree tops and a chill in the air we enter the forest and sense something special. We live on the west coast; we know trees and plants and rain. But this forest we do not know and marvel with each enchanted footstep.
Moss covers everything, lush and thick, with hues of yellow, green, and brown. Ground cover plants throw splashes of pink. Surrounded by the ocean Cape Fife is often shrouded in mist and pounded by rain leaving a forest vibrant with growth that excites the senses. This is a magical island forest.
Tow Hill
After the Cape Fife hike we walk up Tow Hill in the hope of getting a view of Rose Point.
Golden Spruce Trail
In 1997 a "logging protester" cut down a 300 year old Sitka spruce. The 165 foot tall spruce with golden needles crashed to the ground with its top leaning forlornly next to the Yakoun River.
Goodbye Haida Gwaii
Today we take the overnight ferry back to Prince Rupert but that leaves us with another day to explore. We go to Tlell and hike the Misty Meadow Trail, then back to Skidegate to hike the Spirit Lake Trail, and finally a short visit to Haydn Turner Park in Queen Charlotte.
Misty Meadows
Spirit Lake Trail
Haydn Turner Park
Credits:
Photography by Wolf and Karoline Eilers