Nepal is a landlocked country tucked between India, Tibet and China. It is known best for the Himalayan Mountain range that stretches across the northern tier and of course the tallest of all mountains, Mt. Everest. Kathmandu the country's magical capital city is a quirky way station for most foreign travelers who see it as a place to provision themselves for outdoor adventure and then to leave being able to make the claim they ventured into such an exotic place.
Everest, the mountains, and trekking are the backbone of the tourism industry. Many travel only as far as the Everest base camp - take a look - turn around and go back home.
Kathmandu is a sprawling open market place from dawn until night and at times it seems every third store is selling western branded outdoor equipment. Columbia, North Face, Patagonia. They are all represented on the city's dusty and narrow streets.
Religion is as much a fabric of the nation as nature and the hard manual labor it takes to survive here. Eighty-percent of the country identifies as Hindu and another ten percent as Buddhist. But on almost every street corner and every village you will find both large and permanent and small and make-shift shrines and offerings to the gods of both faiths.
The Kathmandu valley is the major population center of the country with about one million people living in the city itself. It's narrow roads are maze like and lined with structures dating back hundreds of years. Many were severely damaged by an earthquake in 2015 and have been stabilized with wood propping or are in various states of restoration. Some of the restorative work is being financed by foreign countries like Japan and China.
When I engage in conversation with local people in the countries I visit I do not bring up issues about government or politics unless they do. If they do, then my questioning begins.
Nearly everyone I spoke to in Nepal volunteered without my asking their opinion that they have a beautiful country, but that their government is failing them. They feel the road system is inadequate, pollution is bad and that there is no government investment in the health of the country even from the perspective of attracting more tourist dollars. As a result, they fear people will come to Nepal once, but never a second time.
Despite these misgivings about government service the people seem happy and content. They are kind, friendly, helpful and curious. There is no sense that displeasure with the government has the country on the edge of civil unrest. That is simply not the way of the Nepali people. Perhaps it's religious philosophy that leads them to continually accept things as they are without expecting much improvement.
I do wonder how long this attitude can last in today's modern world. Those of school age especially have wide access to information and a view of the outside world their parents did not always have. For how long will they continue to accept substandard living conditions as the only way forward? They simply know better.
As I mentioned in my reports on Vietnam and Cambodia, visitors to Nepal should be prepared to see the wealth of foreign travelers in direct contrast to the very poor way of life of the average Nepali citizen. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. While it may seem quaint to travel its dirt roads and push through the crowds on its narrow streets - this is not Disneyland. The average citizen makes $5,000 to $10,000 per year and lives in housing conditions most in the United States would consider below sub-standard.
Behind the doors and windows of the beautifully aged architecture are one room flats that may house an entire family. There are clearly few regulations regarding workplace safety or public health.
At various construction sites around Kathmandu I saw men working in sandals or bare feet. No hard hats. No work gloves. It is like a scene from a thousand years ago. In one instance I saw a man using his bare feet to hold a circular saw in place as he trimmed a piece of wood.
In a country known for its environmental riches the air pollution is so bad you hear people coughing and see them spitting on the streets to cope with the smog. Because of the air pollution the view of the Himalayas, one of Nepal's greatest assets, is simply not always there. Traffic is horrendous and dangerous. Roads that seem built for only one lane of traffic usually carry two lanes and at times someone will make a third.
This is not simply someone from the United States finding short-comings in another culture. I am pointing out that certain common sense public health regulations are not in place. I noticed it - yes - but more importantly the people of Nepal feel the same way and they want to see things change. They want to be living in a modern country with modern standards and practices, but the system as it exists today does not seem capable of delivering.
I visited two cities during my week in Nepal. Kathmandu and Pokhara. I took a bus both ways between both cities. It is about a seven hour drive each way which afforded me a good look at a large section of the country. I did not travel near Everest or to other parts of the country that are in a more pristine state. But I was in the two places most tourists are most likely to go.
I was lucky, while I was in Kathmandu, to connect with a fellow photographer who I knew through school and who was born in the city. When he saw me posting photos from his hometown on line he offered to give me a tour.
Walking the back streets of Kathmandu is an amazing experience that makes you forget, for the most part, all the challenges the country faces. Every time you turn a corner the view is different, life is different. It is hard to believe that after seeing so much there is still more to see.
In the early morning the streets are filled with people selling meat, fish, fruits and vegetables. When you walk through a few hours later the food merchants are gone, the shop doors are open and all manner of goods and services are being sold on a street which looks completely different. By night time the food sellers are back and the streets are doubly jammed with people buying and selling.
If you are a shopper, the Nepalese rupee is so devalued against the U.S. dollar that you can buy almost anything you want at what seem to be extremely low prices. At this writing one U.S. dollar is worth about 115 Nepal rupees.
When I was in Vietnam I told a hotel worker about my plans to travel to Nepal and she said, "Oh, that's a happy place." I do think most people have an image of the country as somewhat mystical. I asked one Nepali if he thought his country is a "happy place" and he said, "not right now."
And that's what you should know. I would recommend a trip to Nepal for anyone who is interested and I would not discourage someone from going. I would tell them that not everything they see and experience will be pleasing. Some of it could even be upsetting. Despite the smiles you will get from most of the people you meet life here is difficult. Unfortunately there are few signs that will change in the near future.
Frequent Flier Notes: When planning your trip to Nepal you will be advised that as a U.S. citizen it is very easy to get a visa upon arrival. This is not true. Do everything you can to get a visa before you arrive in Kathmandu. The visa system at the airport is slow and can take three hours or more. You must wait in three lines for what in the end is one stamp. Similarly, when it is time to leave, get to the airport at least three hours ahead of time. The check in systems are antiquated and breakdown often.
Credits:
© Dean Pagani 2019