It is about a five hour flight from Buenos Aires to the city of Ushuaia near the tip of South America in the archipelago known as Tierra del Fuego. Like much of Patagonia, it is a region shared between the countries of Argentina and Chile.
Once you come to understand the geography of the mountains that dominate the landscape both countries are often in view.
Ushuaia is the largest city (Pop. 60,000) in Tierra del Fuego so it makes the claim to being the southernmost point on the planet, or el Fin del Mundo. The marketing slogan ignores the existence of Antarctica, but the point is made.
The city is on the north side of the Beagle Channel which is one of the main routes across the tip of the continent. It is named after the research vessel that first carried Charles Darwin through the region during his early explorations.
In Spanish, Tierra del Fuego means land of fire. It was so named by Ferdinand Magellan who when passing by in the early 1500s saw fires burning on shore. It is believed the fires were used by the indigenous people of the region to keep warm. Even though the climate is harsh and cold the native population had adapted to living largely without clothing. Scientists are still trying to figure out how they managed to do so.
Whether sailing the Beagle Channel, hiking through Tierra del Fuego National Park, or flying over the area it is easy to imagine the awe early explorers from Europe must have experienced seeing the landscape for the first time. From just off shore Ushuaia looks more like a camp than a city. The mountains and sea seem fully capable of swallowing it whole at any time.
I met many people who have lived in Ushuaia all their lives and many who come from different parts of Argentina. Others come to work in the tourist industry and leave after a few years.
Ushuaia is a major port for tourist ships leaving for Antarctic Cruises. I ran into travelers who were heading south on a variety of vessels (including sailing ships) for twelve days to thirty-three days. In some ways it reminded me of Kathmandu, Nepal. Both towns are filled with wealthy adventure travelers in search of a starting point for trips to Antarctica or in the case of Kathmandu - Mt. Everest.
Tourists walk the streets bundled up in the highest tech winter weather gear. People who live in Tierra del Fuego year round seem less prepared in terms of their clothing, but just as comfortable. It was summer after all with temperatures ranging between 45F to 55F.
I had planned to stay in South America for three months when my journey began so that I could fully explore the Patagonia region. However, during the course of my trip, which I was largely planning from the road, I found it difficult to manage the logistics of the remote area without better local knowledge so I cut my travels in South America to about six weeks. In doing so I missed one obvious stop that I should have made in central Patagonia.
El Calafate, a small town located about halfway between Buenos Aires and Ushuaia is a layover stop on most flights north and south. El Calafate is known for its access to Los Glaciares National Park, its rugged landscape and turquoise colored lakes. If you make the trip to Ushuaia, for whatever reason, I would recommend spending at least a day or two in El Calafate which also happens to be just over the border with Chile's Torres del Paines National Park.
Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego is adventure travel without the adventure. After you've been there you can say you have been to one of the most extreme locations on earth without taking much risk to your personal safety. If you go trekking it is recommended that you always have a guide. The weather is highly changeable and it is easy to get lost.
The landscape and waters are pristine. The power of nature is evident everywhere you look. I found myself wanting to come back even before I left and as I left I found myself planning a more detailed trip covering the entire continent of South America.
During my four months on the road I visited nearly 30 cities. In many of those locations I got to observe urban society in cultures around the world. In South America I got to see nature in its purest forms. From the Atacama Desert in Chile, through the Andes in Peru and far south to land's end. Experiencing urban life in different countries is fascinating, but being confronted by all nature has to offer is beautiful, humbling and inspirational.
© Dean Pagani 2020
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© Dean Pagani 2020