An Inside Look At Independent Perfumery 1st Annual Tigerlily Perfumery Skunk Works Weekend

Tigerlily Perfumery is a warm, welcoming hub for discovery and immersion in independent perfumery. We champion as-yet-unknown and emergent talent while facilitating fragrant experimentation for all, with the goal of bringing unexpected beauty and joy to the members of our diverse and growing community.

For Tigerlily Perfumery Skunk Works 2017 Antonia Kohl asked perfumers to express themselves with a short phrase describing their approach to creativity and perfumery. What is the "One Thing" which guides each perfumer?

"I have a mission." Andy Tauer

Tauer Perfumes L'air du desert marocain

Andy Tauer is a man on a Mission: To make people smile with exceptional fragrance!

L’Air du Desert Marocain transcends perfumery—it is an experience. Ambergris and spicy cedar shape a smoldering sirocco in the vivid foreground of this heat-haze mirage. Tempting coriander, and darkly divine cumin waft from souks to the kitchen tagine. What enchantments await under a starry Moroccan sky? Tendrils of incense from a nearby mosque shadow-play in haunting silhouette. I’m transported to a twilight Maghreb desert with arid labdanum.

This midnight blue pentagon is the genie in a bottle, making your fragrant dreams come true. With a sleight of hand, he brings you to the world of Paolo Cohelo's _Alchemist_. It is magical.

The perfumer’s mission explores both metaphorically and geographically. Through his oeuvre, Tauer takes us through the deserts of Morocco, Maghreb, Kandahar, and verdant gardens. It’s this expansive imagination that makes Tauer exceed chocolates and time pieces as the best Swiss export. L’Air du Desert Marocain is the definition of niche perfumery to me. And yes, I am smiling.

Mission: Accomplished.

Thirteen perfumers and perfume makers, yet one voice - the voice of Ashton K. Each perfumer selected the one fragrance from their collection which best embodies their "One Thing" statement. Perfume lover Ashton K. worked with each perfumer one-on-one to expand further on their "One Thing" statement, wearing their perfume for herself and penning the all words you see here describing her fragrant experience.

So I told an indie perfumer the other day: “You’ve taken such creative risks here—you practically need a stunt double!” Wild originality brings independent efforts to the forefront of modern perfumery. That’s what I’m looking for—the Wow factor. Large design houses are risk-averse. If a dozen executives approve a release, you end up with something that mildly appeals to many, and shocks no one. Conformity creates Average. And who wants to smell just Average? Fearlessly step through that uncharted territory, and give us something that surprise & delights! -- Thank you. :-)
"Exceptional Beauty." Jeffrey Dame
DAME Black Flower Mexican Vanilla

What defines ‘Exceptional Beauty’? Beauty itself is subjective, and depends on the beholder. To be an exceptional beauty, however, demands Uniqueness. A similar construct underlies modern and postmodern art. The purpose of this movement is to create Art that has never been made before. Each artist conceptualizes the new and heretofore unseen; presenting a cohesive body of work that explores this theme in depth. Simply re-working an existing motif, or repeating an already-done idea, fails to make the mark.

Where contemporaries assembly-line sweet gourmand vanillas, or overuse aroma chemicals like ISO E and ambroxan as default, Dame Perfumery thinks outside the box. What if, vanilla can be refreshing with a citrus burst opening, and also be full-bodied, dark, and exotic? Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is a fresh-spicy presentation without the over use of sugar. The name pays tribute to the Aztec word tlilxóchitl, meaning black flower – a species of climbing orchid native to Veracruz near the Gulf of Mexico. A well-balanced blend of citrus top notes, floral support, musk, patchouli, and tonka elevate Vanilla to its grown-up, seductive best. In the modern perfume world we curate, Black Flower Mexican Vanilla reigns in the permanent collection.

With originality like this, Jeffrey Dame breathes new life into 21st century perfumery. Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is hypnotic decadence, and above all, Exceptional Beauty.

Founder, The Institute for Art and Olfaction / The Art and Olfaction Awards.

"The things that inspires me most is the diversity of approaches to indie, artisan and experimental perfumery. I believe that due to the democratization of information (and the growing ease of access to materials), it will be increasingly possible for 'outsiders' to pursue their interest in the field, in their own idiosyncratic ways. Through the Institute for Art and Olfaction and the Art and Olfaction Awards, my interest is to facilitate these independent practices, and to celebrate excellent work and communication between practitioners on an international scale."

Mikmoi’s Lingua Franca is a celebration of Diversity through a common language. This peripatetic perfume unites tagetes from Cape Town, antique lemongrass of Zanzibar, Hawaiian pineapple, yuzu of Fukuoka, Savannah La Mar’s allspice, and Guayaquil’s palo santo into its fluent Esperanto. These souvenirs hail from all six continents, and the gestalt is greater than the sum of the parts. You will travel to far-flung places between initial blast to dry down. And you’ll want to tell everyone about it. For perfumer Michael ‘Mik’ Coyle, scent is a shared vocabulary. A vernacular not written or spoken, but shared. True to form, Lingua Franca transcends cultural, religious, and age boundaries – to be enjoyed universally. This fresh fragrance translates effortlessly between varied settings. Equally at home at the beach, the boardroom, a university setting, or an art studio. It’s gender agnostic. It’s euphoric. A stunning conversation piece that unifies a diverse group with common lexicon. Globalization offers opportunity to enrich our lives through cultural curiosity, and embracing differences. Does unity create a common language; or does a linguistic bridge create unity? It may just be a question of semantics. Lingua Franca’s mindset is Inclusion. We, as people, can reach new heights by finding common ground.

"Exquisite, Whimsical, Botanical Perfumery." Laurie Stern

Purrfumery Jewelry of Heaven

Our perfume fairytale begins – not with a spray of top notes – but our protagonists, Velvet and Sweet Pea. Two felines, tortured in an animal testing lab. Enter Laurie, our compassionate heroine. She rescues the cats, gives them a home, and turns their lives around. Two kitties return the favor, and give Laurie a new life mission. Using her botanical background, she builds a Purrfumery with a natural-organic focus, and 100% cruelty free ingredients. We present to you, an Exquisite, Whimsical, Botanical Perfumery!

Laurie Stern employs home-grown botanicals to handcraft floral essences with organic jojoba oil for her Kittylicious line, and organic grape and sugar cane alcohol for her eau de parfums and parfums. One whiff of Jewelry of Heaven makes it clear, how much care goes into her craft. These small batch artisanal perfumes are charmingly presented in bottles featuring Velvet & Sweet Pea. Their boutique delights with Victorian sparkle and vintage treasures.

After a citrus opening, layers of Rose make Jewelry of Heaven sparkle. Turkish, Himalayan, and Queen Nefertiti rose tincture dance on the edge of decadence in this glamour puss perfume. A full-bodied rose is made delicately sweet with jasmine grandiflorum and orange preserves. A fanciful homage to 19th century jasmine-rose with a modern fruit twist. Jewelry of Heaven is luxury with a conscience... the real cat’s meow. And you know what the best part is? The fairytale’s a true story, and they lived happily ever after.

1st Annual Tigerlily Perfumery Skunk Works Weekend Saturday April 8th in San Francisco

"Wildly unique and wearable." Josh Meyer of Imaginary Authors

Imaginary Authors Cape Heartache

Think fast - you've mixed Strawberry and Vanilla. What do you add next? The obvious choice is floral or amber. Where other houses default to patchouli, Josh Meyer goes for PINE. Not surprisingly, Cape Heartache smells like no other perfume in the world. It's the unexpected pairing that brings out the wildcard, like "Pride & Prejudice and Zombies". Imaginary Authors is unafraid to experiment and take great risks.

Cape Heartache is an immersive experience, surrounding you with an evergreen forest in the Pacific Northwest. Dark shadows form trees in the desolate landscape, under a dense mountain fog. Fir needles snap as you make your way through strawberry shrubs and craggy lichen-covered rocks on the forest floor. Breathe in deeply, and you're rewarded with balsam fir and the smell of crushed berries. You can almost smell the fog covered terrain. Instead of mixing notes to oblivion, the fruit and conifers are astoundingly well articulated. Almost palpable smoky incense makes this scent an indulgence of the great outdoors.

Cape Heartache is a triumph. Modern, violently avant-garde, and effortlessly wearable.

For L’Aromatica’s Loreto Remsing, scents are mysteries to unravel. What is the smell of pheromonic attraction? Animus cracks the code with exotic vegan musk and precious oud from Assam. Named after a Jungian term for the masculine aspects of a female personality, this perfume blurs gender archetypes and exudes sexual energy. Let’s deconstruct this puzzle piece by piece. In our labyrinth lurks a shadowy figure with fluid grace. From a distance, warm winds carry the scent of an awaiting mate. Pinprick pupils dilate in the darkness, eyes glowing gold. Animus opens strong with camphoraceous leather and exotic musk. A shiver runs through the feline form, sinewy muscles tense. The smell gets closer. Ropy tendons call to action as we dart through the maze with quicksilver agility. Vetiver and ambrette seeds emerge as beast turns to machine in urgent search. We’re closing in. Carnal attraction is palpable as rustle of tall grass betrays the object of desire. Pursuit slows, at the proximity of the scent of raw skin. Resinous oud smolders in the wake of an introduction. Two figures encircle with ravenous anticipation. An arched back, a sharp inhale of breath, and pounding heart pierce the night air. Chiseled musculatures intertwine into one. Animus is exotic sensuality– a libidinous energy in liquid form. There is no top or middle note. A seductive base of black oud and musk usher a passionate carnality to the surface. Intoxicating as it is delirious- a perfume for the anticipation of hedonistic desires. L’Aromatica cracked the code on pheromonic magnetism. Share this gender-agnostic scent with your partner, and see what it can segue into.
"Philosophical." Ellen Covey
The Hamsa is a hand-shaped talisman that brings good luck and affords protection from evil. With possible origins in early Mesopotamia, the word ‘hamsa’ means five, referencing the digits on each hand. In the center of the palm, there is often an open eye to defend against the evil eye. Olympic Orchids’ Hamsa represents a search for spiritual knowledge, knowledge of the real world, and the interface between the two realms. Where others dazzle with excess and glitz, Hamsa takes the road less traveled. Ellen Covey is Philosophical – she created Hamsa purposefully to gain understanding of the world, for both the visible and invisible forces that shape our lives. Hamsa’s cerebral endeavor begins with the 5 fingers on the right hand, and 5 fingers on the left, symbolizing the kabbalistic construct of the ten sefirot. These mirrored pairs represent the tangible and intangible forces that channel energy between the divine realm and our own planes of existence. Deep and soulful, Hamsa makes its mark with purposeful symbolism. It incorporates elements from the natural environment, as well as human- made constructs. Five paired vessels overflow with the physical and the metaphysical. The first sefirah marries an ephemeral olibanum smoke with sandalwood; melding the abstract and concrete. The second pairs woodsy incense of palo santo - the sacred tree with cognac, in a celebration of spiritual harmony. Mastic incense and liquidambar pair bitter with sweet. We next have myrrh - earthy incense - combined with the lightness of citron. Finally, oud and apricot merge hard resins with soft ripened fruit. This is no ordinary fragrance pyramid. The structure of Hamsa lies in the juxtaposition of contrasts, hard versus soft; bitter versus sweet; and concrete versus ephemeral. This journey shapes the material out of the transcendental and vice versa. The confluence of these ten sefirot reminds us to resource visible, emotional, and metaphysical powers, to repel evil from our world. Ellen Covey’s underlying Philosophy is to gain further knowledge of world we live in. Conventional goals of commercial success or likeability play no role in this uncompromising quest for enlightenment. To me, Hamsa is Consciousness and Awareness. Not just an appeal to the emotions, although it is that, but also a Philosophical, thinking-person’s perfume.

"Old World Discovers New." Ineke

Ineke Field Notes From Paris

Close your eyes and imagine your halcyon school days, when carefree hours blur afternoons to evenings. For Ineke, this nostalgia returns to a café in Paris, where she lingered for hours over cafe crème and perfume study. One facet of her formal perfume education involved the “old world” of men’s classic colognes from the 60’s and 70’s. But more recently, a move to San Francisco incorporates new material and techniques in her work.

Field Notes from Paris blends classic fougère with a ‘tobacco-as-unisex’ element which is thoroughly modern. This woodsy oriental opens bright with citrus, lavender and coriander seed. Clean tobacco curls sweetly around tonka and patchouli adds strength, before riding off into the sunset in a soothing leather-beeswax mist. Field Notes transitions with dexterity between the bergamot-coriander electricity to warm luxurious tobacco flower. It provides the escapism I was hoping for, to a sunny afternoon in Paris.

Building on a historical base, Field Notes is a modern take with gender-agnostic Tobacco. Innovation, progress, and evolution are the hallmark of independent perfumery. With great finesse, Ineke delivers the Best of both worlds.

S+M Time Traveler

Scents can unlock a treasure trove of forgotten memories, and open doors to our emotional past. These fragrant flashbacks can induce extraordinary feelings. Even our earliest childhood remembrance is linked to scent triggers. No matter what age, many people can vividly recall what their grandparents’ house smelled like. People, places, a past love – all unlocked from their cell of episodic memory—via a nostalgic aroma. Manuela King harnesses the powerful connection of fragrance to our innermost psyche.

Time Traveler is an unforgettable exploration to the depths of your soul. It’s a fragrant déjà vu of places from your past, and a promise of destinations yet to visit. Both a recall and clairalience – a seventh sense for the future. An intoxicating jasmine casts an enchanting spell to the heart chakra, with crystal-ball-view of distant dreamscapes. Amber warmth and a heart of sandalwood add a feeling of peaceful calm. A base of indulgent ambrette seed fans passionate desire. You’ll revisit sensual escapades from a karmic connection savored, with thoughts of ‘I can’t get you out of my mind’. Time Traveler rejoices in its infinite possibilities.

S+M is ‘Senses and Memories’, specializing in natural, synthetic-free perfumery. Botanical ingredients from around the world come together for emotional and physical healing. Manuela selects essential oils and absolutes for their purity, scent, and vibration. Every memory has a scent and every fragrance has a memory.

So tell me... where do you want to Time Travel?

"Revival and Reinvention." Fitzgerald & Guislain

Fitzgerald & Guislain Extrait d'Osmanthus

Decked out head-to-toe in Victorian sartorial splendor, Alexander Chesebro and Ian Fitzgerald rediscover artisan, natural perfumery. Their perfumes combine modern materials such as botanical isolates with rare historic ingredients crafted in-house, including precious enfleurage extracts and animalic tinctures. This is Old World craftsmanship at its best. Only botanically-sourced CO2 extracts and absolutes from reliable suppliers enrich their blends.

Extrait explodes with liquid-sunshine Osmanthus, drenched in apricot-honey. Transparent osmanthus remains constant throughout the composition, while the fruit segues to mimosa and decorative dried-rose bouquet. A harmonious transition to hay notes conclude our olfactory journey. The foundation for this aromatic adventure is an exact reproduction of a nineteenth century animalic perfume from the house of Piesse and Lubin. Fitzgerald and Guislain’s re-inventive repertoire of osmanthus absolute, natural apricot, and jasmine Grandiflorum enliven this poetic piece.

Extrait d’Osmanthus is evocative of my childhood spent in Kanagawa, where we gathered voiles of creamsicle-colored flora in origami vases. Vintage chiyogami paper bowls brimmed with osmanthus-- sprinkles of orange rain in the wind.

Fitzgerald and Guislain reinvent a time-honored tradition for a modern audience. Extrait d’Osmanthus makes a lasting impression.

En Voyage Perfumes
Shelley Waddington is a Raconteur. All her perfumes tell a story- some with richly nuanced characters, and others are historical narratives. Our story begins with Figa. The Figa is a hand sign that convergently evolved across cultures, ranging from the Azores, to Eastern Europe, to Africa. It celebrates Strength in the face of adversity, for both the individual and those united-in-spirit. The powerful Figa amulet symbolizes solidarity against an oppressive force, and bestows protection from evil. Figa Eau de Parfum is an Olfactory Talisman- now more necessary than ever- representing strength through unity in tough political times. Our heroes, both fictitious and real, have a vision. To protect ourselves against bullies, to protect our rights to be safe, and to express ourselves freely. To take a stand against government oppression. Figa personifies, both on a quiet personal level or on the grand scale of MLK and Katniss, a battle cry to take back your life! En Voyage’s talisman brims with powerful protective energy. Blackberry and smoke roll out the red carpet, along with bergamot – a traditional oil anointed for protection from physical danger. Geranium provides ritualistic purification, while Rose de Mai induces thoughts of love and peaceful harmony. After a while, jasmine emerges, proffering good luck. A soft violet darts in and out, warding off quarrels, while amber casts its warm glow. Each ingredient is carefully chosen for its curative charms. Fierce patchouli wards off negativity, and labdanum concludes as harbinger of victory. Fortified with base note fixatives galore, Figa makes an all-day lasting impression. Be ready for compliments on this well-projecting blend. Figa is rich with symbolism and traditional healing alchemy- a Superlative Narrative! *ÇaFleureBon’s Project Talisman showcased Figa in March 2017.

"Embracing the dark and the light." Heather Kaufman

Jolie Laide Perfume Cléo de 5 à 7

Cléo de 5 à 7 is a 1962 French noir film that provides inspiration for the eponymous fragrance by Jolie Laide. Our heroine despairs over a possibly fatal medical diagnosis, and spends two hours agonizing over pending results. Facing her mortality, existential themes of ‘meaning of life’ and despair cloud her vision. In the end, Cléo meets a soldier heading to the Algerian war, who makes her realize her self-absorption amidst greater global events. This awareness, along with favorable test results, lead to the adoption of a brighter outlook. From the ugliness of health fears and selfishness, are borne the beauty of her new disposition. In a sense, beauty cannot exist without the grotesque; just like light cannot be without dark.

Heather Kaufman dexterously crafts a quirky elegance with natural materials. Botanical perfumery is the embodiment of unconventional beauty, unlike the assembly line, lab-made perfection. Like our heroine Cléo, nature has asymmetry and roughness- imperfections alongside the seductiveness. Cléo is no airbrushed Barbie doll.

The perfume Cléo presents a juxtaposition of dark and light through bright citrus florals overlaying a dark leather and agarwood base. Citrus and jasmine explode in a spirit-lifting prelude, and remain throughout the composition. Leather becomes more pronounced as time goes by, and the oud so mysterious and inviting. This fragrance captures the emotional range of the cinematic rendition, from heart-thumping excitement to enlightened calm.

Tigerlily Perfumery 973 Valencia Street San Francisco, CA 94110 USA

With many thanks to..Ashton K., Saskia Wilson-Brown, Andy Tauer of Tauer Perfumes, Jeffrey Dame of Dame Perfumery, Michael "Mik" Coyle of MikMoi, Laurie Stern of Purrfumery, Josh Meyer of Imaginary Authors, Manuela King of S+M, Ellen Covey of Olympic Orchids, Ineke, Loreto Remsing of L’Aromatica, Alexander Chesebro and Ian Fitzgerald of Fitzgerald & Guislain, Shelley Waddington and Heather Kaufman of Jolie Laide.

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