In this photo I removed the suspension cable from the left side of the photo in the foreground. Using the paint tool on the sky was the easiest part by far, all I had to do was use the eyedropper tool to paste the cloud color onto my brush and it was as simple as that. The trees and grass were a bit tougher. I needed to use different brush types and camouflage patterns to make a good fit and I’m still not entirely satisfied with the final product but I did the best with the tools I have been trained to use. I did a small amount with the contrast so the edited parts would blend better with the background. The rule of thirds was applied because the main focus, which is the scenery, is in the bottom third of the photograph.

This flower in the picture is a macro because if the exact same flower was held up to the printed copy, the picture flower would dwarf the size of the actual by a factor of around 4. My vantage point was above the flower with the stem not visible to the camera lens. The blur tool was used to blur the background of the photo to accent the focal point which is the flower.The hue and color balance was changed to turn the flower into a slightly different color and to make the green wilting on and all around the flower more noticeable. Another perhaps eye-catching element would be the fake petal on the top right of the flower. This was created using combinations of different brushes and tools such as the airbrush and paintbrush as well as the color dropper to match the same colors as the flower.

In this photo I heavily edited the background and made it completely new. The old background was overlapping beige paper. I copied the model and painted a new background with the paint and airbrush tools. The colors came from the model’s shirt using the color dropper. Freehand select was used to crop the model’s silhouette from the foreground. One thing that needed a fix was the model's silhouette having hard edges heavily contrasting the background. The heal tool was used on the edges to somewhat mold the two together. Finally, the saturation was slightly heightened to make the light and shadows on the model pop.

I first started out by adjusting the Hue-Chroma color setting to -100 to completely monochrome in the photograph. The brightness needed adjusting because the parts of the sky not already covered by clouds were far too bright, so I used level adjustment to dampen the glare. Then to further reduce the distracting light I used the airbrush and burn tool to fill in the open space. Finally, the trees in the photograph, especially in the front, blended together. I used the blur and contrast tool to mitigate the effects.