This guide is for you if you are...

someone who actually reads clothing labels

concerned about fast fashion being the 2nd dirtiest industry in the world

confused and overwhelmed by all the contradicting information on fabrics

interested in learning more about why it's time to stop assuming all clothing brands have your back

i have been there

Prior to starting Yem, I already considered myself a savvy consumer (I read clothing labels, wore organic cotton, purchased from small boutique brands). However, it wasn't until after launching Yem, months of in-the-field research on "sustainable fashion," and many shocking realizations that I finally felt like I had a real grasp of the fabric world. In this guide, I will share with you what I have learned: my personal list of 5 best and 5 worst fabrics for you, fabric makers, and our environment.

5 worst fabrics

Synthetic fibers (nylon, rayon, polyester, acetate, acrylic, spandex)

There are so many reasons why synthetic fibers should be avoided but I will list here the 3 reasons that matter most to me. One: they contain cancer-causing perfluorinated chemicals that are not only leaked into water and soil but can be inhaled or absorbed directly by our skin. Two: they take 200 to 400 years to biodegrade. Three: they don't breath and they trap odors (I don't know about you but I don't enjoy smelling bad).

Fabrics dyed or treated with chemicals

This is a big one. It is the main reason the fashion industry is named the number 2 worst industry for the environment. While searching all over Asia for the most natural fabric, I learned the sad truth that even beyond factories who intentionally use chemical dyes and are aware of their damage, many small businesses and artisans innocently use them on their natural hand-woven fabrics because the dyes are misleadingly labeled "natural."

In her book "Wear No Evil," Greta Eagan said that today there are more than 10,000 synthetic dyes, 12-15% of which are emitted into our everyday life as liquid waste. The problem is working with true natural dyes is extremely hard, time-consuming, and costly, which is why most brands choose chemicals. When shopping for clothes, I only choose the brands that specifically mention the natural dyes on the label or packaging.

Industrial fabrics made from "eco-friendly" materials like bamboo

Growing up in Vietnam, the land of bamboo, I was very excited to buy my first "eco-friendly" bamboo shirt last year. Then I came across a study by Patagonia stating that to make bamboo fabric, raw bamboo is "converted through a chemical process into a fiber that falls into a category between naturals and synthetics." This chemical is toxic and can endanger factor workers and the environment through air emissions and wastewater. No more bamboo for me.

Cotton

Many people love cotton, mainly because it is "natural," low-maintenance and very breathable. However, they are likely not aware that it is considered “the world’s dirtiest crop” due to its heavy use of pesticides and insecticides. Moreover, the nitrogen-based synthetic fertilizers used on cotton are the most damaging to the environment. Organic cotton solves the pesticides and insecticides problem but does not solve the land and water usage problem. It takes about 290 gallons of water to grow enough conventional cotton to produce a t-shirt. In the case of organic cotton, it takes about 660 gallons.

5 best fabrics

Hemp (hand-woven, naturally-dyed)

I think hand-woven hemp fabric (not hemp that has gone through factory processing) deserves so much more attention than it is currently getting. It is a natural fibre from a highly versatile plant that that requires significantly less land and water than cotton. Because it is a densely growing plant that is naturally resistant to most pests, the use of pesticides is not necessary. It also returns the majority of the nutrients it takes from the soil. As a fabric, hand-woven hemp is very strong and low-maintenance.

I spent months in Vietnam's mountainous villages researching hemp. I wanted to work with hemp so badly, particularly the kind made by hand by H'Mong women in mountainous Vietnam. However, in the end I decided to hold off for few reasons, one being the very narrow woven width as a result of the traditional weaving technique.

Silk (hand-woven, naturally-dyed)

Needless to say, silk has a special place in my heart because of Yem and because I love the feel of silk on my skin. As silk has definitely earned its place in the luxury fabric world, I will not be going into too much detail on why it is so great. I do want to mention one fact you may not know: the majority of the silk products sold in the world are synthetic, not made from 100% silk and/or dyed with chemicals. If you can find naturally-dyed 100% silk (like ours), stock up because it is hard to come by.

I have come across a few insights that silk is not "vegan" and therefore is not humane. It is true that it most cases, to make real silk, the silk cocoons are boiled, which results in the death of the silkworms. However, this species of silkworm is domesticated, which means the moths do not naturally survive past the cocoons anyway.

Linen (hand-woven, naturally-dyed)

Linen, made from flax plant, is one of the oldest fabrics in the world. I consider linen very similar to hemp, both in the making (growing, weaving, etc) and the actual fabric itself. The only issue I have with linen is it can be very wrinkly, which is one of the reasons I do not own any linen pieces. If you enjoy ironing or love the casual wrinkly-but-cool look, (undyed or naturally-dyed) linen is definitely one of the best fabrics out there.

Cashmere (hand-woven, naturally-dyed)

Another fabric very close to my heart, cashmere, is the king of all fabrics. It is hand-spun and hand-woven from the soft, downy undercoat of the Himalayan mountain goat. Like silk, it does not need an introduction. Also like silk, the majority of cashmere products are either fake or not made from 100% cashmere (I have seen so many "cashmere" sweaters containing less than 5% cashmere).

One cool fact I learned from my cashmere artisans in Kashmir, India is that because (the real) cashmere is made from nothing but the extremely delicate goat hair, chemicals cannot be used during any part of the process in his village.

Tencel

Tencel, a branded name of lyocell fiber, has been gaining attention in the sustainable fashion world. The same study by Patagonia mentioned above gave it a nod. Like bamboo, tencel is a regenerated cellulose fiber, but processed with a non-toxic spinning solvent in a closed-loop system. I am not as excited about tencel because it is still an industrial fabric and some factories still use chemicals in one or more steps of the process (for example, a formaldehyde treatment to help with pilling and wrinkling). What I do like about tencel is the fact that it is very soft and fiarly wrinkle-resistant.

Thank you for reading! For comments, please send me an email at linh@yemcollective.com.

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