I don’t intend to be misleading—point-and-shoot cameras are meant to be user-friendly and ready-to-go. That being said, when you’re used to shooting (D)SLR cameras, where you have complete manual freedom, it becomes hard using gear that thinks for you.
Not sure what happened here...
Getting to a point where I could just freely use the camera meant learning what the camera will consider as it takes an image. First, it automatically senses what the film ISO is. Here, I used Truprint 200 film (that was also expired so we can expect trippy things to happen).
Loading film is easy, and the camera will tell you once it’s loaded what ISO it is. Because I’m using ISO200, natural daylight is the best.
Problems arise once the flash is involved. Because the flash is set up for ISO100, the options involving manipulating shutter speed cameras-internal (i.e. you cannot control this manually) can lead to unpredictable results.
Taken on “nighttime portrait mode”
One would think that the nighttime portrait mode would be satisfying for taking photos of people at night without them getting red eye. Instead, it creates a lot of these dancing light effects (at least when taking photos inside).
Taken on “Auto-flash with red eye reduction”
I recommend tinkering with the flash settings relative to the film being used. Here, the auto-flash with red eye reduction seemed to work best inside dark spaces. Everything else about this camera is incredibly straight-forward. It becomes fun to see what the camera picks out to focus. I also recommend trying out the panorama feature (which I haven’t done yet myself).
This camera can become the street photographer’s play-thing because of its unassuming size and ability to capture images with depth. I hope you enjoy playing around with it as you engage with APS film!