This month Bill and Jim explained and demonstrated how to use resin in our woodturning projects.
Jim outlined several products which will be provided below. Jim uses water sample bottles, colored resin in the bottom of the piece (for example, a bottle stopper), so as to hide the threads. Jim also showed us how an object can be placed within tacky resin so as to remain suspended at the center of the piece. A heat gun is used to quickly bring the bubbles to the surface and to remove them.
The most important thing with working with resin is to MIX, MIX, and MIX some more!
Bill, along with some volunteers, provided an excellent demonstration of preparing and applying epoxy to a piece. Bill uses pill bottles to store and mix key machine metal tailings, as well as an assortment of various other rocks and fillings to add to pieces.
Bill uses his homemade rock smashing tool to get rock pieces down to the size needed for adding to epoxy.
One of the best ways to fill cracks with epoxy is to go from thinnest to thickest glue. CA glue should be applied, first with thin CA, then medium CA and finally with thick CA.
Various epoxies can be utilized including JB Weld 2 part epoxy.
Bill showed how duck tape, or Tyvek tape can assist in closing ends of pieces to keep the resin in place on the piece.
In this month's Tips and Tricks, Leon guides us through collet chucks.
Websites, Tools & Products Discussed
Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast Resin: https://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Amazing-Clear-Cast
Craft Supplies Apprentice Casting Kit: http://woodturnerscatalog.com
Amazon Table Top Epoxy: http://amazon.com/table-top-epoxy
Show and Tell
Members of the club are encouraged to submit photos and a description of the species and design of their work. Please submit these to Aaron Bryan at email@example.com no later than the 20th of each month.
Tips and Tricks
Work Holding, Reverse Holding By Leon Olson
When I started turning again thirteen years ago, I got a four-jaw chuck and used a recess in the bottom of bowls so I would not have to finish turn the bottom. A tenon really does work better than a mortice. I have shattered the bottom of bowls by tightening the chuck in a recess too hard. Eventually, I found ways to remount bowls so I could finish turn the bottoms. Now they look a lot nicer and there is no visible way to hold them on a lathe.
The least expensive way to reverse hold a bowl is with a jam chuck on a faceplate. You need to use the tailstock to hold the bowl against the jam chuck. You an turn the bottom to the point there is a very small nub in the center that can easily be removed by hand. You can also tape the bowl to the jam chuck to be able to finish the bottom. I would only use tape to hold the bowl to remove the small nub.
Next would be a donut chuck. you need some way to center your bowl on the base plate and then use a ring plate held to the base plate with bolts or threaded rod. The bolts or rod can be dangerous. You need some way to cushion the ring plate so it does not leave compression marks. You can use vinyl tubing with a cut along the length of the tubing pushed onto the edge. Donut chucks are used for lots of turnings besides bowls. I have seen them used to cut details into the surface of a ball. I have seen them used for gruing staved turning blanks with a taper.
You can build your own adjustable plate chuck. Again, you would need some way of centering your bowl, like your tailstock, and a way to avoid compression marks.
Most four-jaw chucks have blat plates (jaws) that can be used to remount bowls to finish the bottom. Nova sells Cole Jaws. They are so well known that many turners refer to the flat jaws for all brands as Cole Jaws. For most brands of chucks, the mounts are machine screws covered with rubber. Some are round and some are square with angled surfaces. Vicmarc has attaching mounts that allow you to hold your bowl either against the plates or away from the plates. You can modify the plates by cutting plywood pieces to attach to the plates which allow you to hold large bowls on small plates. Then glue blocks to the plywood, which you turn to whatever shape you need. I use Baltic birch plywood because of the strength and no voids. Use the softest wood you have as the jaws. You do not want compression marks on your bowl.
Another option is a Longworth chuck. The Longworth chuck was developed by Leslie Douglas Longworth of the Hunter Valley Woodturners in Australia. you can make your own Longworth chuck. Most turners just buy one to fit their lathe. The plans are online (link below)
How to make a longworth chuck: http://www.sbwt.org/make_a_longworth_chuck
If you have questions on this month's Tips & Tricks, email Leon Olson at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Why We Live in Southern Utah
July 2021 Club Attendees - Both in Person and via Zoom
Jerry Allred, Will Arcularius, Brent Arnold, Steve Ashworth, Bob Belkowski, Jeff Blonder, Aaron Bryan, Jake Cannon, Pricilla Cuara, Luis Cuara, J. Cuara, Tom Demogines, Locke Ettinger, Les Gray, Jack Gunn, Reiner Jakel, Sean Lovell, George Mason, Karl Mcmullin, Mark Nelson, Glenn Pearson, Jim Pope, Vernile Prince, Bruce Sharp, Mark Shelton, John Spevak, Jason Starr, Bill Vincent, Eric Walker, Gary Wilcken, Chuck Zimmerman
Items for Sale by Members
Please submit items for sale to Aaron Bryan (email@example.com) before the 20th of the month to be included in the newsletter. If you have sold an item listed in the newsletter, please notify Aaron so he can remove it.
For Sale by Will Arcularius, 805-712-2174, firstname.lastname@example.org
1) Makita Compound Sliding Miter Saw, 12", Model LS1214FL. Excellent Condition. Price: $345
2) Robert Sorby Thread Cutting System. Never Used. Have both the 16 TPI and 20 TPI cutters. See page 20 in Craft Supply Catalog. Sells for $129.95 - Will take $85.
For Sale by Bob Hansen, 928-347-5718, Nova Mercury Variable Speed Mini Lathe with bed extension, 1/2 HP, 8" swing over bed; 14" swing outboard. $300. For more info contact Bob directly.