What I have learned in photo one Brighton Mills


Shutter Speed - Fast Motion
Shutter Speed - Slow Motion


Aperture - Shallow Depth of Field
Aperture - Deep Depth of Field


Lights used: Hair light & Key light


This is a film canister. After photos were shot on a film camera, We take out the Film from the camera and load it into this Anti-light Canister. In this photo, it displays the cap and the cup. Inside the cup is a reel.
Changing Room (1) - After unraveling the Film, We load it into the Reel during our time in the darkroom. The lights in the changing room must be completely off in order for no light to be exposed to the film to cause damage.
Changing Room (2) - The read florescent light helps us see what we are doing before taking the Film out of the can.
Changing Room (3) Our model, Michael Freeman, sits so we can see the depth and space of the changing room.
After the Film is loaded into the Cannister, we use D-76 Developer to help develop the image. Infused with water (5oz + 5oz), the chemicals develop the Film. Based on temperature, we set the timer according to how cold or hot the water is. After, we pour in 10oz of water that acts as the stop bath.
After the stop bath is finished, it is dumped out. Then, we use Fixer to help sharpen the image. With a skull and bones covering the front of the jar, the chemical "Fixer" is dangerous to the human body; be very careful when handling. Once the Fixer is done, carefully pour it into the correctly labeled container called "Fixer". DO NOT pour it down the drain. After, place the cannister in the "Photo Flow" for 30 seconds.
After the film is taken out of the Photo Flow, let the excess Flow drip back into the container. Then, unravel the Film from the canister, and place a weight on the bottom and a clip on the top of the long stretch of film. Leave in the dryer for 24 hours.
The next day, we then cut the film into strips and place it in a thin sheet of plastic called a "Negative Carrier". Another word for sleeves, this carrier allows us to choose which photo we would like to print while viewing the others simultaneously.
Enlargers - After we have chosen the image we would like to print, we take it to the Enlarger to expand the image. These complex looking machines are surprisingly simple to use, although precision of the hand is very important. The next couple of photos will demonstrate how to use an Enlarger.
In this photo, James Pierce is working under an Enlarger.
We use the Grain Focusing Tool to sharpen the image. This helps tremendously so we can make sure the printed image is not fuzzy.
In addition, we use Contrast Filters to help the Enlarger make a sharper print. Different filters have different light exposures, so we always have to be careful for which one we choose.
When the image is almost perfect, we use Dodge and Burn tools to either enhance the light exposure or divert it. For example, if an image is very dark after it was shot, a dodge tools is used to take away the amount of time the image is exposed to light. Therefore, when printed, the image is lighter.
The photo paper is then laid on the desk and exposed to light for a number of seconds. This is where burning and dodging, contrast filters and grain focusing is used all at once.
Chemical Processing - In order from bottom to top, we have D-76 Developer (Leave photo in for 90 Seconds), Stop bath (30 Seconds), Fixer (3 minutes) and Washer (5 Minutes). Each step in development is crucial; if done incorrectly, it will ruin the print.
Dryer - The dryer helps speed up the drying process. Unlike leaving a negative in the dryer for 24 hours, we leave a print in the dryer for ten seconds. When putting a print in the dryer, be careful not to shove the photo in; it will scratch and run the photo. Instead, gently hold the print near the slot and let the paper feed into the dryer.
Dryer (2)
After the print is done, plug in the tacking iron and get a sheet of tissue paper. Carefully lay the paper symmetrically in the middle and press lightly on all four corners.


The first step to loading a film camera is to open the back hatch.
The second step to loading a film camera is to have the end of the film stick out and catch it in the groove of the shooter (shoot button). If it doesn't catch the groove, the film will come out without a single image taken on it. From there, take a few test shots to make sure it's winding correctly when it's shot.
After, set the ISO (where the model's right thumb is) to either 200 or 400 (Depending on what type of film you get). Then, use the silver ring around the lens to change the light exposure (Make sure it is a green circle). If you see something other than a green circle (Red Minus or Green Plus) it means the camera is over or under exposed to the light. This step of verification to check the exposure is crucial; if unchecked, the film will be wasted on underexposed or overexposed shots.
Then, you are ready to shoot. Gently pull back the trigger (Left in the photo) of the camera to turn it on. To turn the camera off, push the trigger back to the circular dial. To unload the film, use the notch on the top right (In the photo) to ravel the film back into the can. Pull up on the lever and twist clockwise until there is no more tension.



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