Naturally Refinishing A table made from reclaimed wood
Sample making: The client wanted heavily dispersed pigment to settle in the cracks, so we will make our paint directly on the surface
Pigment settling in the cracks
After liking the rubbed pigment into the cracks, we continue the finish
Brushing on wet milk lime to the dry mix on the surface
Wet mix + dry mix completed
Since the designer and client wanted the colorant in the cracks only, using a wet rag in a taut ball rubbing the surface removes the lime
Notice the gloves for protection. With a pH of 12.4, lime will irritate and dry out your skin. It is best to wash skin in an acidic solution of lemon juice or white vinegar to counter the lime.
CompletIng first coat
Once the first coat was applied, we needed to assess the results with the designer and client. We made sure to apply a thin coat, rather than go more opaque, so we could always add more. If we started too opaque and the client didn't like it, the process of removing the paint would not be easy.
Another advantage of using a lime-based paint is the fact that it can be reactivated with water and somewhat removed from the surface. Had we used more industrialized or commercial paint products, adhesion is more permanent and difficult to remove and control translucency.
After assessing the table in the evening, the client dislikes the burn marks and darkened areas of the table and wishes for them to be whited out.
A second coat is applied to lessen the intensity of the burn marks and darkened areas of the wood as per the client's wishes.
After the second coat is completed, an application of dead flat protective coating to preserve lime and pigment.
Without the protective coat, the paint would be susceptible to removal in future cleaning treatments.
Gentle wiping of protective coating from the surface. The water still activates the lime and can be slightly removed before protective finish is dry.