The signature of Islamic State's cruelty is harder to erase. The YPG fighters showed us a dungeon buried in the ground where Yazidi women were kept as prisoners. Inside on the walls a diary of their torturous confinement buried underground in the desert.
What Islamic State calls a 'court'
Moving through the towns we also saw other evidence of what life meant under the yoke of IS rule. In one building - which they called a court - we found leaflets demanding an Islamic tax from farmers harvesting their crops of wheat and barley. The shadow of Islamic states totalitarian theocratic nightmare may have been reversed in parts of northern Syria but I.S is still a major threat. The fighters at checkpoints are nervous. Suicide bombers are still striking these areas and they fear as I.S weakens more will be sent to cause destruction and division.