On O'ahu's North Shore, surfing is life. I know little about the sport, except what I'd experienced riding ocean waves in a kayak years ago. During the winter months, the swell on the North Shore is big - really big.
Desirée and I drove to Pipeline often to check out the waves and watch the Triple Crown surfing competition which was taking place during the weeks I was in Hawaii.
While Desirée showed me around the local scene, Alexia and Charlie were at school until mid-afternoon.
While capturing this image one morning at Pipeline, I could sense the respect that is essential in a surfer's relationship with the sea.
Surfers wait and watch, looking for patterns in the swell and the right moment to enter the water.
Once afloat on his board, this surfer will catch a fast running rip current through the shore break and paddle to the larger swells breaking beyond.
A wave is selected and caught. The ride down its face is quickly over, but the thrill and intensity of those brief seconds lures the surfer back, again and again.
I rode Desirée's bicycle 10 miles west from her house to the trailhead of the Kaena Point Trail. Hoping to see nesting albatross, I walked the five miles along the shore to the westernmost point on O'ahu.
On the last day of my visit we headed back to Pipeline to watch a few heats in Round One in the Pipe Masters competition. The surf was a moderate height, but the light south wind made for glassy wave surfaces and good conditions for surfing.
Thank you so much, Desirée, Alexia and Charlie, for sharing your Hawaiian home with me for two weeks. I love you!