Marine life isn’t the only charm of cruising the region. Tiny settlements are scattered throughout Southeast, some built and sustained by the magical year-round supply of hot water. In Tenakee Springs, the community bathhouse overflows with water cascading from a large cleft in the bedrock around it. Separate times are allotted for men and women, with clothing strictly prohibited. At Baranof Warm Springs, a short hike alongside a long cascade leads to e Grotto, a 117-degree pool perched beside a tumbling waterfall.
Such beauty comes with a price for a few aptly named areas: Deadman’s Reach, Peril Strait, Murder Cove, and Ford’s Terror. Almost every anchorage has rusting relics of earlier, harshly lived lives. Few are more haunting than Funter Bay, where some 900 Aleuts were interned during WWII. e nal resting place for many of them lies a short distance from the dock, where carefully tended Russian Orthodox crosses glow a stark white against the gloom of the trees. e contrast seems to encapsulate the dread that the families must have felt when they found themselves suddenly relocated from the windswept tundra of the Aleutians to a claustrophobic rainforest infested with bears