Photo 1 Final Ruby bloom, Dempsey tonks, eden attarzadeh

After taking digital pictures, we all return to our assigned computers and place the SD card into the computer and upload our photos for viewing and to turn in.
When taking the film out of the canister to start developing, we have to go into the changing room which is completely dark. This is the only light in the room that is turned off right before we start the process.
In the changing room, we have to pop out the film from the canister, then reel it up into the negative reeler, place the spindle inside to keep it in place, then place it into the black canister.
These are the reels, spindles, and canisters used to develop the negatives.
The Developer is the first liquid you pour into the canister mixed with 5 oz of water. We take the temperature of the liquid which determines how long we leave it in the canister. After every minute with the developer, we have to agitate it for 5 seconds. With the fixer, you pour 10 oz of it into the canister and agitate for 10 seconds every minute for 5 minutes.
This is the hurricane washer that we place the reeler into post fixer to fully remove of all the chemicals. This sink is where we develop all of our negatives.
After developing the film, we keep the film in the dryer overnight so completely dry them before photo printing.
Here's an inside look into the dryer and the clips we use to hook it on and the weighted clips we use to keep the film from moving around.
After developing negatives, we have to cut them and place them into the sleeves to create a contact sheet.
Another view of our photo sleeves.
This is the contact sheet printer where we place our negative sleeve in on top of printing paper and develop it to view our pictures.
After creating the contact sheet, we place our negatives on the light table and put it through a negative carrier and place it into our enlargers to start the printing process.
This is the photo paper that we project our negatives on through the enlarger in order to create and develop our pictures
Test strips are used to see how many seconds of light you need to expose your photo to have the perfect amount of contrast.
with these little blue grain focusers you are able to look into the glass lens and use the nob on the englarger to make sure your photo doesn't come out with little grains all over it.
This is the speed easel that we place our photo paper through after deciding how long we are leaving it under the light.
The enlarger is how we project our negatives onto our photo paper. We place the negative carrier inside and develop the picture from there.
Another view of the enlarger
The contrast filters are used to create a greater contrast when printing the photos. They are placed into the enlargers before we start printing the photo.
These dodge and burn tools are used when printing photos to either block light from hitting the paper or to gain more exposure on one part of the photo.
After projecting the image from the enlarger onto your photo paper, you place the paper into each bath. The first one is the D-76 for 90 seconds that darkens and starts the photo. The Stop Bath is next for 30 seconds which stops the D-76 chemical. The Fixer is after and you leave the photo in for 3 minutes and this stabilizes the photo. The final step is to place the photo in the Wash which is just water and cleans off all the chemicals.
heres another photo of the chemicals, make sure not to get them on your clothes.
this is the squeegee board, you use the black part of the device to wipe water off the surface of your photo whilst it is stuck to the board.
After the development of the picture, the final step is to place the photo through the dryer.
The nobs control the speed and how high the temperature the dryer is at.
If our picture needs to be cut, we place it on the cutting table and move the razor across the photo to get a straight, aligned cut.
After tacking the photo to the mount board, we leave it under the presser for 3 minutes to create a frame around our processed picture.
Before mounting the photo, you need to set the dry mount to a specific temperature to create heat when pressing the photo.
This is the large, strongly lit key light that we used for the 3-point light shoot. Behind in this shoot, we used the backlight which created a focal point in the photo. The hair light is placed behind the model to create a light onto the hair.
Making a pinhole camera requires household materials such as a box, a rubber band, aluminum foil, tape, and photo paper. To take the picture, you lift up the shutter to expose the light through the hole which prints it onto the paper.
Photograms were made with photo paper and objects to create a shadow like imagine on the paper.
Shutter speed is the time that the shutter is open at a given setting. The slower the speed the more precise and focused the photo will be.
Aperture is an opening in a camera that will either create a blurry background at specific setting or focus everything.
Storyboards are used to sequence and plan a shoot to present some sort of story through the photos.
The camera has settings to adjust the focus, aperture, and shutter speed. The shutter speed is measured in the top left corner (1/125). The f stop is expressed at the top in the middle as F5.6, which is the ratio of the lens focal point. The aperture is shown through the ISO which can be adjusted by the knob at the top of the camera.

Credits:

Created with images by Mr Conguito - "aperture" • Perry McKenna - "Warm and Cool"

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