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Turmoil santiago, Chile

The people of Chile are in a war against the political class.

It began last October(2019) with spontaneous street protests against government ordered price hikes for subway fares and quickly turned into a movement that may lead to fundamental change in Chile and inspire others around the world who feel their governments are also falling short.

Downtown Santiago.

On the streets of Santiago at midday everything appears to be normal. People go about their lives reporting to work, conducting business, relaxing in public parks. But every evening, citizens respond to calls on social media and old fashioned street posters asking them to raise their voices in demonstration. They are seeking economic justice above all. They are also seeking a government whose leaders live up to the meaning of the phrase "public servant."

Some of the protests have turned violent as police try to control the crowds. The United Nations has criticized the Chilean government for allowing police to use unnecessary force that has resulted in injury and nearly three dozen deaths.

Messages spray painted on the walls of Santiago call for people to wake up, fight, resist and in some cases threaten violence against the police and the government.

A visitor to Santiago first notices the signs of unrest walking the streets.

Street art is part of the culture of this South American city, but in recent months graffiti messages have become sharply political and anti-government. Nearly every building I saw, except for banks, government buildings and others protected by fencing, have been used by graffiti artists and others to send an unmistakable message calling for dramatic change. The entire city has been painted in this way.

Top: The banner reads "The right to breathe in peace." Middle: A call for a new constitution and to "re-found Chile." Bottom: A call for "total liberation" and the suggestion of violent means of protest.

If you are part of the government in Chile and you drive the streets of Santiago you know you are despised. Protestors do not distinguish between the leaders of one political faction over another. Things may appear calm, but they can erupt at any moment.

An effigy of President Sebastian Pinera hangs from a signal light on a Saturday evening.

As far as the people of Chile are concerned every government since the dictatorship of Augusto Pinochet (1973-1990) has made the same promises of reform and every government has consistently failed to deliver. Meanwhile, those with government jobs and those who hold elected positions have prospered. Therefore they are considered to be part of the same continuous regime.

It's why some walls are simply painted with the dates "1973-2019." It's why the effigy of President Pinera I found hanging from a street light the weekend before New Year's day carried a sign that read, "Culpable."

There is a sense of history in Santiago. As you walk the dusty streets you can tell the city has seen things, lived through things and been challenged.

The protests have so far led to one small victory. A nationwide vote is scheduled for April to determine whether Chile will adopt a new constitution. This has been a major demand of the street demonstrations. The people of Chile feel the current constitution, which was written during the Pinochet years, was drafted to benefit big business at the expense of the people. The country's wealth has therefore been concentrated at the top.

No one expects the April vote to change things immediately, but the people believe it is an important first step and a sign that their demands are taken seriously. A final vote on whether to accept any newly drafted constitution is scheduled to occur no later than March of 2022.

A statue at Plaza Italia on New Year's Day. This is one of the main gathering spots for daily anti-government protests. A decision has been made to not remove political graffiti, because it is understood anything removed today will be immediately replaced.

The protests in Chile have the potential to inspire others around the world. In almost every country I visited - during a four month tour at the end of 2019 - I heard the same complaints from average people.

There is a widespread feeling in many countries that government leaders are in it for themselves. That governments are nothing more than self-perpetuating machines set up to protect those who are part of the system. In some countries there is a culture of protest. In other countries there is a culture of acceptance. But in a world made small by rapid communication I wonder whether success in Santiago will lead others to follow the example of Chile much like the Arab spring spread through the Middle East ten years ago.

Top left: Protestors say nothing has changed for the better in Chile since 1973 so every political faction that has been in power has failed regardless of their stated agendas. Bottom left: Gladys Marin a deceased former Chilean political agitator who is one of the icons of the current movement.

The decision by the government of Chile to make concessions to the ongoing protests shows politicians, no matter how tight their grip, must always - at some point - respond to public opinion or risk losing their power.

Santiago.

© Dean Pagani 2020

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© Dean Pagani 2020

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