Caribbean Compass Monthly International Caribbean Yachting Magazine


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Welcome to THE Caribbean Compass - the most widely read boating publication in the Caribbean!

Click here to download Compass Annual Calendar of Events 2021

Every month the Compass brings you THE MOST NEWS YOU CAN USE — more feature articles on cruising destinations, more news about regattas and events, more news about our Caribbean environment and more news about marine-related businesses. Plus we’ve got THE MOST FUN: poetry, fiction, history, book reviews, recipes and cartoons.

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And we’ve got THE MOST INTERACTION: letters make our always-lively Readers’ Forum a must-read. Caribbean Compass, a monthly source of information and enjoyment not to be missed. Readers say, “Compass is the best!” Welcome to the Caribbean!

If you want to receive notifications by e-mail when each month's new Compass is available free online, just drop a note to sally@caribbeancompass.com and we'll put you on the list - it's as easy as that!

In this Issue:

NEW ENTRY RULES: Major Changes for Vaccinated Cruisers

Starting on July 1st, Anguilla will remove fee and quarantine requirementsfor visitors who are fully vaccinated. • Photo: Chris Doyle

Many Caribbean countries have now relaxed their requirements for quarantine upon entry for visitors with proof of having been fully vaccinated against Covid-19 at least 14 days prior to arrival. Generally, all travelers must still submit negative PCR test results taken before arrival and be retested on arrival, but on receiving negative results subsequent quarantine is not required. Whatever your position on vaccines, it is clear that this is good news for the cruising community members and for the countries they visit. NOTE: The basic information that follows is correct to the best of our knowledge, but there are more details and things are changing daily so always look for updates before embarking for a new port...

Read more on page 5


Knowing how hurricanes track across the Atlantic makes it easy to figure out where one will hit the Eastern Caribbean. This map shows the tracks of all tropical cyclones in the ‘above average’ 2018 hurricane season. The points show the location of each storm at six-hour intervals. The color represents the storm’s maximum sustained wind speeds on the Saffir-Simpson Scale. Photo: NASA/NHC

by Don Street • In 1984 I got caught at St. Maarten by a late-season hurricane. Hurricane Klaus barreled through on November 8th. Due to a warning about an approaching hurricane, I had positioned my engineless yawl, Iolaire, on the north side of the island, where we’d be safe from winds from the south. Then we discovered that the hurricane was coming east toward the Virgins, turning our sheltered anchorage into a deadly lee shore. It was too late to get to a safe harbour. Klaus was the first hurricane on record to hit the Leeward Islands from the west, catching many of us by surprise. At St. Maarten, the seas wrecked a cruise ship; the passengers and crew swam to shore. Iolaire survived by deploying six of the seven anchors aboard (see “Surviving Klaus” at www.street-iolaire.com).After that, I decided that I had to do some research...

Read story on page 18

Caribbean Eco News

Eastern Caribbean artistes sing to reduce marine litter

Grenada’s popular Sabrina Francis joined the effort to draw attention to the alarming level of litter in the Eastern Caribbean ocean space. • Photo: Just Cool Photos

The Organisation of Eastern Caribbean States' marine space ranks among the highest in the Western Hemisphere for endemic marine species. Being approximately 85 times larger than its land space, the OECS marine space supports an extensive array of livelihoods and industries. Entertainers from the OECS are calling on OECS nationals to help reduce pollution of the marine environment...

Read more in Eco News on page 8

Regatta News

International Optimist Regatta this month

Tanner Krygsveld during the 2019 IOR. Photo: Matias Cappizano

International Optimist Regatta this month • Carol Bareuther reports: A record of 122 sailors have signed up to race in the International Optimist Regatta (IOR) to be held in St. Thomas, USVI, from June 14th through 20th. The entry list for the event was already filled back in January. According to regatta director Hollis Jenkins, the reason for filling up so fast is pent-up demand after the lack of international and US regattas due to Covid...

Read more in Regatta News pp. 9/10


Book Review by Nicola Cornwell

A Certain Paradise, by James Ryan. Perfect Wind Publishing, © 2013. 262 pages. ISBN: 1470091658, ISBN 13: 9781470091651

• The Oxford English dictionary defines paradise as “noun: an ideal or idyllic place or state” and I’m stating the blindingly obvious when I say the word is regularly tossed around in the context of the Caribbean, like tropical paradise or sailor’s paradise. Beaches are called it, cocktails namecheck it and touristy websites sprinkle it liberally in their heavenly descriptions of Caribbean paradise on earth. But who are we kidding?...

See review on page 27

Business Briefs

21 Hours from initial enquiry to delivery!

In this pandemic era no one would have thought this possible! The captain of S/Y Encore says, “I can’t thank everyone enough for the extra effort in making this happen.

Tom Gerker of Parts & Power Ltd. in Tortola, BVI, received a call from Erwan Le Normand at Caraibes Diesel in St. Maarten at 5:45pm on April 19th. Erwan desperately needed a Northern Lights M673L3G marine generator for S/Y Encore, whose owner was due to arrive on April 21st for the first visit in over a year...

Read more in Business Briefs page 11

Special thanks to the Superyacht Services Guide

Meet the Adventurous Sailors & Team behind Caribbean Compass! Congratulations to the team at Caribbean Compass, who have proudly celebrated their Silver Jubilee 25th Anniversary Year these last 12 months...

Read the full interview here:


by Ed Gifford • For classic yacht owners and crew alike, the month of April has always been synonymous with the Antigua Classic Regatta. For over 35 years, yachts have sailed from all directions of the compass to be a part of these breathtakingly beautiful, historical, and spirited competitions. In spite of this year’s Classic Yacht Regatta being canceled due to considerations relating to Covid, some of Antigua’s classic fleet met in Falmouth Harbour on April 10th for a friendly race around the cans, titled “The Mary Rose Schooner Race”...

Small Photo: The 1926 Nathanael G. Herreshoff schooner Mary Rose. • Main Photo: The modern Bill Dixon-designed Spirit of Tradition sloop Freya. • All Photos: Ed Gifford

See story on page 11


Yacht movements in the Caribbean since March 2020 have been very different from those in past years. To avoid the risk of spreading Covid-19, virtually all major regattas, as well as music festivals, carnivals and other events that attract sailors, were canceled. With tightened yacht entry regulations designed to stop the spread of the pandemic, which often involved a period of quarantine on arrival and occasionally saw borders closed altogether, many cruisers gave up island-hopping and stayed put...

• Main Photo: Chris Doyle • Before volcano ash began to fall, cruising in the Grenadines was more popular than ever.Small Photo: Tutty Lee Many boats come to Guatemala’s Rio Dulce before choosing among the more than 12 marinas.

See story on pp. 12/13


• Main Photo: The SS Flandre, a sistership to the SS Antilles.• Before volcano ash began to fall, cruising in the Grenadines was more popular than ever. • •Small Photo: Collection of John Cunard-Shutte • The elegant interior of the ship, which was built in 1953 for the French Line.

Part One: First Responders

In 1971 the 568-foot passenger liner SS Antilles ran aground off the island of Mustique. Although three US Coast Guard planes and a Navy aircraft were dispatched from Puerto Rico, a French Navy ship and Air Force planes were sent from Guadeloupe, and a British anti-submarine frigate was diverted toward Mustique from Anguilla, it was local boats and charter yachts already in the area that rescued all of the Antilles’ passengers who had abandoned ship and were drifting helplessly in lifeboats in the night....

See story on page 26

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Classified AD of the Month

Property FOR SALE

Bequia, Lawler Hill - View from above Lower Bay

Bequia, Lawler Hill • Over 2 acres of mature grounds with fabulous views overlooking Port Elizabeth, Lower Bay, Friendship Bay and Mustique. Property includes a charming home plus a cottage hideaway. Could be sold separately or together. Price negotiable. Contact T. M. Zoffoli, Tel: (774) 563-0240 E-mail: austintiare860@gmail.com


32' BHM Downeast Cruiser. Built by Atlantic Boat Co. Maine 1993. Cummins 300hp, Engine 1900 hrs. 200gls. fuel, new Raymarine auto pilot, chart plotter/fishfinder, fridge, inverter. Sleeps 4, perfect fish/dive/charter. Lying Grenadines. US$75,000 E-mail: caribpub@gmail.com

32' BHM Downeast Cruiser - Lying Grenadines. US$75,000

To place a classified ad in Caribbean Compass contact shellese@caribbeancompass.com


Good day for a sail? Let's find out!

Selected Shortwave Weather Reports 2021

Selected On-line Weather Sources

Tide Forecast

This Month in Pictures:


• All Photos: Justyna Kramer


• by David H. Lyman • “After a few days of walking around with a camera making photos, people get used to me,” Justyna is telling me. “‘Oh, she’s the one with the camera. She’s okay.’” Justyna is an amateur photographer, and, for the past ten years, has been the mate on The Dove, Larry Tyler’s 54-foot charter yacht. Recently, due to Covid restrictions, Larry and Justyna elected to stay in the Grenadines for 12 months, moving in a bubble between Admiralty Bay, Bequia, and Chatham Bay on Union Island. With little to do, other than live and work on the boat, Justyna has been working on her photography remotely, taking online tutorials, and going ashore to photograph the people and their habitat.“

See story on pp. 20/21

Photo: Justyna Kramer
Photo: Justyna Kramer

“Since March 2020, after we dropped off our last charter client, I gave myself an assignment. I said to myself, ‘I will upload a new set of my photos every week.’ That would mean I had to find images in my files, or make new ones, make the conversions to black and white, and upload them to my Facebook and Instagram accounts. So far, I’ve not missed a week and it’s been almost a full year...

See story on pp. 20/21


by Joan Conover and Denise Simpson • The northern coastline of the Dominican Republic (DR) has a long history of supporting maritime vessels going all the way back to the Spanish treasure flotillas. In addition to providing useful harbors on the coast, the entire country offers attractions ranging from historic cities to rainforests. Check out the tourism site www.godominicanrepublic.com if you plan a visit.The large bay at Luperón can support 200 yachts swinging on rodes, and at least a hundred have been known to anchor here permanently at one time or another. • Main Photo: Bruce van SantThe large bay at Luperón can support 200 yachts swinging on rodes, and at least 100 have been known to anchor here permanently at one time or another.

The large bay at Luperón can support 200 yachts swinging on rodes, and at least 100 have been known to anchor here permanently at one time or another.

See story on page 14

WHO IS RUFFANUFF? A Tale of Two Very Salty Musicians

Cora and Stan 30 years ago…

by John Evertonr • I first saw Ambler, the vessel that the traveling musicians Stan and Cora Lojda circumnavigated on, anchored on the Hamilton side of Admiralty Bay in Bequia. I was intrigued by both the design and exaggerated sheer line of the boat, which I later learned was designed by G.L. Watson and built as a motor-sailing lifeboat for the Swanage LifeBoat Station on the south coast of England... • Main Photo: Old Photo Print of Ambler

See story on page 22

50 WAYS - Photo Challenge: ‘How I Get Ashore!’

by Jim Hutchinson • Hutch reckons there are 50 ways to get ashore from your boat. Are there? Let’s accept the challenge! Send a photo of how YOU get ashore — inflatable with outboard, rowing dinghy, sailing dinghy, kayak, paddleboard, windsurfer, noodles, fins — or something else entirely? Set your phone or camera to the largest image setting, snap your getting-ashore vehicle of choice, and send the picture to sally@caribbeancompass.com. If we succeed in getting different 50 ways, your photos will appear in a full-page montage in a future issue of Compass. It might even be suitable for framing!

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Dugout Gommiers racing off Gros Ilet, St. Lucia, 2019 Photo: Anonymous

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Cover Photo: Davon Baker | Chris Doyle | Just Cool Photos | Matias Capizzano | Ed Gifford | Chris Doyle | Tutty Lee | Collection of John Cunard-Shutte | NASA / NHC | Justyna Kramer | Bruce van Sant