Below I have selected 5 photographs in which I am going to apply my Advanced imaging techniques to;







To start, open up your chosen raw image. You want to make adjustments that affect the sky, mid ground, foreground. Or you can concentrate of highlights, mid tones, and shadows. Play around with exposure, shadows, whites, blacks etc and then for further control move into your luminosity panel.

In here you can control certain aspects through color. For example the sky may be too light so I slide my blue slider down to darken.

Once you are happy save the image as a DNG (digital negative). This is so you are working with the best possible files when you load into photoshop. Depending on what you are doing, name the file something that you can easily distinguish what it is. I am only looking at Background/sky and Foreground/water.

Once you have all your files and happy with the adjustments, select the files in bridge and click;

Tools > Photoshop > Load files into Photoshop layers...

Once loaded you will get an screen like above. Your two/three images loaded into layers in the same photoshop file. Your next step is to order them how you wish and create a layer mask on your top layer. My sky image is on top so I am painting through to bring out my lighter foreground.




For this particular edit I struggled to get this to work as I initially only had one image to work with and to do a HDR edit the "traditional" way. So I looked to other ways to do it and a fellow student adviced using Google Nik.

It is a program that is free to download and use within photoshop which allows to to load pre sets onto photographs to get the desired effect on the photograph.


I selected the bright option which instantly changed the image. I loved the effect it gave the image and it was what I wanted to achieve.




The RGB color mode is the most common to work with, so I’ll assume that most of us use this as our default. We can still work in RGB even though we’re doing adjustments in LAB color mode, it’s just a little extra work. So open up your image as you normally would and basically process the entire image until you’re happy with it.

This message will appear asking you if you want to merge and flatten the background and Layer 1. Click Flatten.

The lightness channel contains all of the light and dark tones in the image while avoiding any noise caused by the color channels. Sharpening works by darkening the darks and lightening the lights at their boundaries. Any color noise will cause noisy sharpening. In this example, I’ll show the Unsharp Mask to sharpen the image. You could use whatever method you prefer in place of that.

Switch to the channels palette and select “Lightness”. The “A” and “B” channels should be deselected and your image should look like a black and white photo. Now, apply your sharpening directly to that channel. For the Unsharp Mask, you can find it under; Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask. Every image requires different settings, so don’t just assume that those numbers when you first select are the best for your image. Once you get the sharpness where you like it, apply the filter and reselect the “LAB” channel in your palette.




A pattern overlay is used to add a pattern to a particular layer. Using Pattern Overlay in conjunction with other effects can help you create different styles, with depth.

Open the image you want to edit in.jpg format - Then create new Layer.

Select "New Fill Layer" and select "Pattern".

This is the window that will pop up once you have selected 'Pattern'

I only wanted to add texture to the hair so I used the quick selection tool to select the hair then proceeded the previous step just on the hair.

I played around with the opacity to get the right balance and it gave a softer texture to they hair but not loosing all the detail in the hair



Finally, perhaps the most used and most effective tool found within the Liquify editing window, the face aware tool. can then decided how to apply the facial adjustments that they wish to make, either by using the sliders onthe right of the window orby manually dragging the handles, arrows and control pointsthat appear around the various facial features, when highlighted by the mouse pointer.When using this tool the image editor should be aware not to make any drastic alterations to the image , with the intended changes being applied very lightly in order to avoid creating a very unnatural and false representation of the subject that was originally photographed.

Open the image you wish to edit. select the filter drop down menu then select liquefy.

In liquify, normally it detects the face and it make editing slightly easier, but in this case the models face is partly covered by hair so I have to to all the editing manually.

I had wanted to increase the size of her eyes and hair but wanted to try and keep it as natural looking as possible (proved slightly more difficult than anticipated)

I chose to create a composite image with the subject as a layer mask. I decided to choose just a block colour and create a hotspot behind the subject, which I did by using the paint brush.

To cut the subject out from the background, i kept it in RGB and them selected to blue channel. I then duplicated the blue channel to work with.

I then used the burn tool to darken the shadows and then the dodge tool to select the highlights. The end result is this.

I then used the magic wand tool to select the dark area to make a Layer mask. Once I had selected the desired area I then selected the RGB Channel to the original photo.

I then created a layer mask with just the subject on it. I then copy and pasted the yellow and white background behind the mask.




When thinking about printing and which printing lab I would be use for the 5 physical prints needed as part of the assignment. I have used only 2 places previously; Loxleys and First for Frames. As I have only used Loxleys once and F4F a few times so I felt I would use them as I know Bob personally so if there were to be any major issues with the printing I could approach him.

First 4 Frames is local - only 15 minutes away from where I live making it easier for me to get to and from to either hand over some files to be printed or pick up prints.

As I have ordered prints from bob previously I knew what paper types he had available. I normally use either a gloss or lustre finish. I chose lustre for this particular order of prints as I feel it brings out the detail the best in the photographs themselves.


I ordered these in the evening and as expected, by early afternoon the next day, they were ready for pick up. This is another reason I like using Bob. When I received my prints I was pleased with the results in terms of quality.


For these processed images I feel they would be suited for a catalogue or newspaper for physical print and some would be suited for online purposes such as a webpage or article. In terms of whom it is aimed at, I feel some could appeal to other photographers and some to those who have no connection with photography.


To conclude, for my five photographic edit that I produced; HDR, Exposure Blending, Colour Management, LAB Colour & Sharpening, Texture/Pattern & Face-Aware. I am happy with each result. I feel by taking part in this brief I have improved in my advanced post processing skills dramatically. Even though some of the edits weren’t a 10/10 standard I am pleased with them. The HDR edit was probably the most challenging for me as I only started of with one photo so I had to find other ways around the traditional 3 shot method. I had fun learning all the advanced image editing method but I felt the most enjoyable one to process was the face aware process. By showing the steps in which I used to come to the final image has really helped me and will continue to help me in the future as I can refer back to the online blog I have produced.


Created with images by Photo Monkey - "5"

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