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What's In It? — Aha+Bha+Pha Serum

An overview of exfoliating acids and the Aha+Bha+Pha Serum.

Though many of you are already aware of the different kinds of acids used in skincare products, there are a few among us who are not entirely sure of how to use them. Here I will attempt to give you a quick overview of those included in the Aha+Bha+Pha Serum.

The key ingredients in this serum are alpha hydroxy acids (lactic acid, glycolic acid and tartaric acid), a beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) and a polyhydroxy acid (gluconolactone).

Alpha hydroxy acids are the most commonly used chemical exfoliants in skincare. There are several different AHAs, including glycolic, lactic, malic, mandelic, tartaric and citric acids. Chemical exfoliants help shed the outermost layer of skin cells. These are preferred over physical exfoliants, which can be harsh. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) help improve the appearance of spots, scars and lines while lending a glow to the complexion. However, it is to be noted that these ingredients can also cause irritation and stinging depending on the strength of the product, sensitivity of the skin and developed tolerance to AHAs. This is why we recommend that you, 1) perform patch testing, 2) layer with an emollient moisturizer, and 3) start by using a smaller amount of product for a smaller duration of time.

This is why we recommend that you,1) perform patch testing, 2) layer with an emollient moisturizer, and 3) start by using a smaller amount of product for a smaller duration of time.

Glycolic acid has the lowest molecular size of the alpha hydroxy acids, and penetrates further into the layers of the skin. It acts as an exfoliant which helps shed dead skin by weakening the bonds holding skin cells together. due to its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin, it has the highest potential for irritation.

Lactic acid is another alpha hydroxy acid which is used for exfoliation in skincare. The molecules are slightly larger than those of glycolic acid, so it is not as effective at penetrating the layers of the skin. However, this also reduces the potential for irritation. Lactic acid occurs naturally in milk but can also be synthesized safely in the lab.

Yet another alpha hydroxy acid, tartaric acid also helps improve the appearance of texture of the skin and fine lines.

Salicylic acid is the only beta hydroxy acid used in skincare. It has both exfoliant and anti-inflammatory properties. It can also penetrate the lining of the pores. Salicylic acid is the active metabolite of aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) and is not recommended for use if you are allergic to aspirin. Salicylic acid is seen very commonly in anti-acne products at higher concentrations.

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid which is moisturizing and has anti oxidant properties as well. It has similar action to but is gentler on the skin than alpha hydroxy acids.

Using Sun Protection Is Important!

It is important to remember not to indulge in overuse of exfoliating acids. Some skin types require exfoliation just once a week, while others require more frequent use. It's important to listen to your skin, and to also be aware of other active ingredients in the different products you use in your regimen. Using hydroxy acids, retinol and vitamin C products together in a single day may cause imbalance and sensitivity. Sun protection must also be used while using exfoliating acids.

For any questions or comments, please email us at inquiries@songerieskincare.com.

Created By
Avery Wraith
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Credits:

Created with images by LIGHTFIELD STUDIOS - "attractive young woman applying serum on face with pipette" • White bear studio - "The girl uses cream. Winter hand skin care." • laboko - "Bottle of sunscreen, umbrella, starfish, sea shell and seashell in the sand on the background of sea."