Film grain: this is commonly founded on ISO - as in advanced photography, where high ISO speed brings about picture commotion, higher film speed for the most part brings about more film grain. This is reasonable for certain photos for example in case you're hoping to get an abrasive road picture and so forth however would not work with a scene with sky and water where you're searching for smooth clean surfaces. A few sorts of film basically handle grain superior to other people, so this is the place utilizing movies and seeing genuine outcomes helps something beyond finding out about the hypothesis. For instance, Kodak Ektar is evidently the best grain shading film on the planet! Having utilized both Ektar (ISO 100) and Fuji Reala (ISO 100), I truly can't recognize the distinction between the two. In any case, utilizing a highly contrasting Kodak Tri-X 400, and contrasted with a Kodak T-Max 400, I observe the Tri-X to be detectably grainier than the T-Max. Be that as it may, similar to I stated, some grain will emphasize a photograph, and improve it...do not fear grain
Shading immersion: clearly applying just to shading film, some film tends to over-soak and give fake, counterfeit hues - a few movies give wonderfully regular hues, immersed perfectly, and some even have a somewhat laid back look to it that looks extraordinary. Obviously, some look level and dull - you can securely maintain a strategic distance from this sort of film on the off chance that you feel it's level. In highly contrasting film as well, the tones of the grays change with each film - some have brutal tones, and barely demonstrate any definition among highly contrasting, while some have flawless dark mid-tones, and others have a ravishing shimmering look to the grays
Difference: truly, differentiate shifts as well. To me, this is particularly detectable and significant in highly contrasting film. I lean toward my highly contrasting film to have a medium to high difference - low complexity doesn't work for me, in spite of the fact that I've seen incredible instances of low differentiation high contrast shots. So once more, try!
From the various sorts of film I've utilized (I've been adhering to negatives), here are a few attributes that I've noted:
Fuji Superia/Superia X-Tra (200, 400): my standard shading film. Shoddy, solid, generally excellent. I cherish the hues on this. Not very contrasty, not immersed... indeed I'd state the erien stream hues are somewhat laid back. Grain is fine, and for ISO 400, I could never call it grainy. For arbitrary shading shots, and particularly to test new cameras/focal points, this is my go-to film
Fuji Reala (100): an expert evaluation film, this is one of the best grain movies I've utilized. Hues are more soaked than the Superia, however not very. Very contrasty, and once more, lovely fine grain. Presumably my most loved C41 film
Kodak Ektar (100): another expert evaluation shading film. I'd state the grain is as fine as the Reala, despite the fact that Kodak claims this to have grain better than some other! Extraordinary hues as well, and decent difference. Like the Reala, I'd utilize this for scenes, and maintain a strategic distance from representations - this kind of immersion isn't complimenting for skin
Kodak Portra (160, 400): as the name recommends, this shading film is intended for representations, targeting getting skin tones right, and dodging additional immersion while keeping up pleasant difference - it works incredible for pictures, truly, yet I wouldn't see any problems with utilizing it for other work as well. I don't really feel that I need more splendid hues for scene work, as this kind of look works as well, in some cases. Continuously explore, don't adhere to the 'rules'
Kodak Tri-X (400): a grainy highly contrasting negative film, very contrasty and somewhat brutal. Not my top pick. The main move I attempted was a debacle - the tones were excessively solid, the mid-tones were nearly non-existent for example dark appeared to bounce into white...and the grain was a lot for my preferring. I had an inclination that this roll was terminated (I neglected to check, consistently make sure to check!) so I went out n showed signs of improvement, yet at the same time unreasonably grainy for my preferences. The surface just appeared to be unreasonably unforgiving for me. Like I stated, there's a period for exceptionally grainy film as well, so in no way, shape or form am I going to quit purchasing Tri-X.